Upscale Creole Destination
New Orlean’s, Louisiana, USA
Cuisine Style: Creole, Cajun, French
Average Price: $$$
Overall Rating: 5/5
Dined in March 2015
By Sean Overpeck (CFE)
**A full article and index glossary of restaurants, wines, recipes and travel for
Wine Dine and Play are in the pages section above, or by following these links:
Executive Chef:
Proprietor / Manager:
Lally Brennan
Ti Adelaide Martin
Sommelier:
Dan Davis aka “The Wine Guy”
Chef Paul Prudhomme, the man, the legend who specialized in Cajun and Creole cuisine, and was credited with popularizing these dishes and bringing them to the forefront of popular American Cuisine. He put New Orleans on the world map of great food destinations. In 1975, Prudhomme became the first, American-born Executive Chef at the Commander's Palace. Chef Paul turned the unsuccessful Garden District restaurant into a world-class destination for food. Chef Paul later founded K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen, and it is with a heavy heart that on October 8th, 2015, he passed away. My daughter and I visited Commander’s Palace a few weeks after his death, where we got to enjoy this now famous one of kind Southern Creole Cuisine restaurant that Chef Paul help turn into a world icon.
Chef Paul |
Commander's Palace, nestled in the middle of the tree-lined Garden District, has been a New Orleans landmark since 1880. Known for the award-winning quality of its food and its convivial atmosphere, the history of this famous restaurant offers a glimpse into New Orleans' storied past and has been the go-to destination for Haute Creole cuisine and Louisiana charm. Originally built by Emile Commander as a wedding gift for a daughter who never married, Commander's Palace has evolved into a culinary legend. When John Brennan took over personal supervision of the restaurant in 1974, he began to give the old landmark a new look both inside and out including painting the outside of the iconic "Commander's Blue.”
Now under the supervision of co-proprietors Ti Adelaide Martin and Lally Brennan, the Brennan family's dedication to perfection has never wavered. A steady parade of renowned chefs like Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, Jamie Shannon, and now Tory McPhail have made Commander's Palace the world-class restaurant it is today and its leading-edge Haute Creole cuisine reflects the best of the city.
Menu:
- Appetizers
- Soups and Salads
- Entrees
- Side Dishes
- Desserts
- The Chef’s Playground - 7-course pre-fixe
- Three-course menu special
- Jazz Brunch
- Lunch
There can be no better time to visit New Orleans than in the early spring. The temperature is just right hovering in the mid 80’s and the humidity levels are very low compared to the summer months. One thing you learn when you travel is that if you're going to the Southern United States from the Carolina’s to Florida or west towards Texas, you do it in the cooler months of the year, otherwise you will be in for a world of misery.
The Menu at Commander’s Palace is broken down into three sections. The first was Commander’s à la Carte Dinner menu, Chef Troy’s three-course special menu and the Chef’s Playground menu which consists of six courses, and to order this menu, everyone at the table had to order it. The large corner building, painted in a lite blue with white wood deck frames of art design fits into the Garden District as a great icon, situated across the street from the very famous Lafayette Cemetery where figures include Judge Ferguson of the Plessy vs. Ferguson “separate-but-equal” case, Brigadier General Harry T. Hays who led the 1st Louisiana Brigade in the War Between The States, and the Brunies family of jazz musicians are all entombed. Anne Rice’s family of Mayfair witches and the vampire Lestat have (fictional) tombs in this cemetery, and the movie Double Jeopardy was filmed there in 1999.
The reservations were made nearly three months beforehand, through their site, versus using third party websites such as OpenTable. When my daughter and I arrived, we had the valet take the car, and waited in the front area to be escorted to our table. We were early, so had some time to walk around the outside of the building. Inside the restaurant, made up of two levels to include an extremely large patio area out back, and an area that is partially covered beyond that. We were escorted to the second floor, where the dining room was solid white from floor to ceiling with a green and brown colored carpet with tree embroidery. Most of the tables were four tops with a few two-seaters and larger tables towards the back side. In separate dining areas, the restaurant catered to larger parties, private events, and chef tastings.
We were sat near the windows with a wonderful view of the patio area, plump with trees and small cast iron two-seater tables. Our table like the others on the floor was accompanied by silver painted chairs with green cushions. The service staff was dressed in long sleeve white shirts with black vest and pants, covered by a white server's apron. Sara, our lead or “Captain” server introduced herself, along with a few of the secondary service staff that helped with multiple tables in that section.
My daughter and I wanted to experience the southern cuisine, and being in New Orleans was the perfect city to do it in. We both chose the Chef’s Playground Menu, and I had the optional wine pairing, while my daughter still being 15 stuck with Roy Rogers non-alcoholic mixed drink made with coke and grenadine syrup, garnished with a maraschino cherry. She then moved up the fine dining kids chain with a Shirley Temple! My first wine pairing came before the coursed menu began along with garlic toast to start. I had the Henri Giraud Fût de chêne, Aÿ Grand Cru, from Champaign, France. According to the winemaker, it was a multi-vintage assemblage consisting of 70-30 Pinot-Chardonnay overtones that point toward wood, creamy mousse, delicate acidity and layered notes of toasted almond, black cherry, honey, crème de cassis and lots of ground clove, anise, and ginger. On the palate, it shows white peach, grapefruit, and lemon that form the luscious basis for this bottling’s sappy, substantial yet vivacious finish.
Our first course was a trio of Louisiana Caviars from the Atchafalaya River Basin called Choupique (pronounced shoe-pick and also known as the dogfish), the Ghost Pepper, and the Cajun Catfish caviar, served over a garnie of sweet corn “Russian style” blini chips, crème fraîche, pressed egg and clipped chive pieces.
Louisiana Caviars |
The second course was a spring morel mushroom gnocchi served in a small light to medium colored brown bowl. The mushrooms were fresh from Oregon, with springs of roasted asparagus, creole cream cheese stuffed potato gnocchi, with truffle infused olive oil drizzle. The flavors of this dish began with a nice cream with little spice, then the explosion of mushroom and asparagus to finish. Though morel mushrooms grow throughout the Northwestern United States the ones from Oregon have been rated with better quality and taste. With this second course, my wine selection was a 2012 Domaine d’Aupilhac, Lou Maset Rosé, from Coteaux du Languedoc, France. The wine is a blend of 50% Mourvèdre, 30% Cinsault, and 10% Syrah with tasting notes of black cherries, smoke, grilled sausage, and Brett on the nose. Juicy cherries on the palate, tangy, very earthy, with notes of smoke, game, sweet red flowers and lavender. Earthy, tasty, begs for food.
Oregon Spring Morels |
The third course was labeled as a “le Coup de Milieu” or loosely translated as a physical or social setting in which something occurs. The dish was a glass liquid named the “Saint 75,” a nice intermezzo of Tanqueray gin, fresh lemon juice, St. Germain liquor, basil-infused simple syrup, and Champaign. My daughter was given a similar non-alcoholic style cocktail.
Saint 75 |
The fourth course was a citrus roasted hake, rubbed with chili, sitting on a base of cracked corn polenta mash, with artichoke hearts and a tomato-basil vinaigrette, topped with pickled fennel and radish. The hake is also known by twelve other names including the Pacific whiting and cod, make this deep-sea bottom feeder fish very tasty, flaky and a semi-mild in flavor. The third wine selection came with this course and was a glass of 2012 Foxen Block UU Chardonnay, from Santa Maria Valley, California. 90-92 Points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, with pineapple, citrus, lime peel and seawater-like aromas on the nose. Flavors flowing nicely to a medium-bodied focused and racy style on the palate. Barrel-fermented and aged on its lees, according to the winemaker.
Citrus roasted hake |
The fifth course on the menu was a prime bias cut mushroom encrusted sirloin, served with roasted Oregon morels and mashed potatoes, topped with a foie gras butter, and all swimming in a black truffle mushroom fricassee stew. Though I’m not much of a sirloin eater, preferring either the New York strip or ribeye cuts, this sirloin was perfectly cooked to a medium rare, and intense flavor thanks to the mushrooms. This courses wine selection took us back to France as the first two selections did, being a 2011 Famille Perrin Les Sinards, from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the Rhône Valley. the winemakers list it as pale golden-yellow in color, a soft and elegant blend of Grenache Blanc and Clairette delivers aromas and flavors of ripe peach and licorice with good acidity and minerality on the finish. On the palate, fruit and herb character with full body, pleasant freshness, elegant tannins, excellent balance and a nice finish. Given 91 points Robert Parker.
Mushroom encrusted sirloin |
Dessert:
The final course on the tasting menu was a Plaquemines Parish “Dreamsicle” made from a scoop of tangerine sorbet with a drizzle of a vanilla pastry cream, and candied blood orange wedge cuts. Three square garnished pieces of banana olive oil cake layered the top, with a sprinkle of lava salt, and a chiffonade of fresh tarragon leaves. The original name of “Plaquemines" which incorporates New Orleans and the southern swamplands is a French Creole name, derived from the native Atakapa Indian word, piakimin, meaning the local fruit of Louisiana, the persimmon. The French used it to name a military post they built on the banks of the Mississippi River, as the site was surrounded by numerous persimmon trees. The final wine pairing was a sweet Bonny Doon Vineyard, Vinferno Grenache Blanc, from Arroyo Seco, California. This intensely sweet but very well-balanced Grenache Blanc has notes of coconut, papaya, peach skin, and caramelized sugar. On the palate, the winemaker lists hints of Yangmei (aka yumberry or bayberry) and garrigue, with a stony streak right down the middle, and fantastic minerality.
“Dreamsicle” |
The wine Regulatory’s for the tastings tonight:
Though this ended the tasting menu, to go with this course we added a selection of artisanal cheeses served with warm pecan biscotti, honeycomb, preserved fruits, and candied nuts with a sticky cabernet syrup. These cheeses included a sharp yellow cheddar, brie, and Montego cheddar cheese.
Artisanal Cheeses |
If you decide to opt out of the Chef’s Playground, or the Chef Troy’s Three Course Special list, you still have many wonderful choices on the à la carte menu included grilled crawfish, turtle soup, gumbo, Gulf fish, soft shell crab, quail, filet’s, and ribeye selections.
Please see these guidelines for Tipping in Restaurants and on following proper etiquette, customs, cultures, and avoiding assumptions when you dine out.
Other Noteworthy Southern and Creole Cuisine Articles & Restaurants:
Food 101 Farm-to-table eatery offering Southern classics in Sandy Springs, Georgia
Hank’s Seafood A classy southern seafood eatery house in Charleston, South Carolina
Hyman’s Seafood Enduring southern seafood eatery in Charleston, South Carolina
Lobby at Twelve Boutique hotel bistro, New American, and Southern favorites at Atlantic Station, Atlanta
Magnolia’s A refined upscale take on traditional southern cooking in Charleston, South Carolina
McCrady’s Tavern Acclaimed high-concept inspired Farm to Table tavern in Charleston, South Carolina
Mojo Old City BBQ Vibrant Southern cuisine & BBQ in St. Augustine, Florida
Noble Crust Modern contemporary Italian and Southern dishes in St Petersburg, Florida
SMOQHOUSE, A casual BBQ joint on Anna Maria Island, Florida
Stella’s Restaurant Southern-inspired comfort eats and diner in Gulfport, Florida
The Floridian Restaurant Modern and locally sourced café for southern grub in St. Augustine, Florida
The Mill Restaurant New American fare with a southern spin in St. Petersburg, Florida
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary”
Other New Orleans restaurants and articles on Wine Dine and Play:
Iconic café & coffeehouse serving beignets since 1862
New Orlean’s, Louisiana, USA
|
Acclaimed soul food spot for fried chicken
New Orlean’s, Louisiana, USA
|
Acclaimed gumbo and Creole staples in the French Quarter
New Orlean’s, Louisiana, USA
|
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary by country”
Final notes, review basics, observations and more pictures:
Most reviews are subjective, depending on the writer; but they should also be responsible, and respectfully written, upholding the truth, and accurately conveying the experience to the best of the writer's knowledge, even if it includes metaphors the restaurant may not like to read about. My ratings are by the stars I award (from 0 to 5). The rating is calculated on a point accumulation of six separate factors based on individual experience. They include wine and other beverage selections, plate presentation, customer service, restaurant or café ambiance, food quality, and wow factor. To see more details of this rating list, read this article:
Scores are detailed in the factor chart below:
Formula Factor Conclusions and Overall Ratings
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Max Points Possible:
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Total Points Awarded:
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Total Points deducted:
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Ambiance
|
10
|
10
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0
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Food quality
|
10
|
9
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1
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Plate presentation
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9
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8
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1
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Customer service
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9
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9
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0
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Alcohol and other beverages
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10
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8
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2
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Total regular points awarded
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48
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44
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4
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Total percentage Before Bonus
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0.916666666666667
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||
“Wow” factor BONUS
|
5
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2
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0
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Total bonus percentage
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0.0416666666666667
|
||
Total percentage with a bonus for the final star rating
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0.958333333333333
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||
Stars Awarded (see chart below)
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0 - 5
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5
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**A full break down and explanation of the observations and point disbursement is available in the linked article above. To receive a detailed copy of your score, feel free to contact me at any time and I will provide it to you.**
***
Overall Star Rating:
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5 of 5 Stars:
96% Rating with a 2 point “wow” bonus
An Extraordinary Dining Experience
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Wine List:
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Wine rating:
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8.5 of 10
Old World selections:
France, Spain, Italy, Germany, Austria, Bulgaria, Croatia, Switzerland
New World selections:
Argentina, Chile, Australia, New Zealand, California, Oregon, Washington State, New York, Canada, South Africa
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Corkage fee’s:
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This Restaurant does not list any corkage fee’s however, most American restaurants charge
$25.00 per bottle
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Restaurant style:
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Formal dining
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Cuisine Style:
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American, Cajun, Creole, Seafood, Southern American
Allergen or dietary accommodations:
Farm to Fork, Gluten Free, Grass Fed, Local, Low Carb, Organic, Pescatarian, Sustainable, Vegetarian Options
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Reservations:
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Required
Walk-Ins:
Not accepted
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Dress code:
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Formal to Semi-formal attire
Gentleman – Dress Coats, Dinner Jackets, or Smart Business Attire
Ladies – Semi Formals, Cocktail Dresses, or Formal Gowns
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Child policy:
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The Restaurants reviewed on this site may have a kids menu or cater to them; however, for full enjoyment of food and wine, it is recommended that kids not to be in attendance, unless they have been trained in proper etiquette.
If not then:
Hire a Babysitter!
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Experiences:
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Place for foodies, Contemporary, Trendy, Romantic, Hotspot, Great bar, Great outdoor dining, Good for special occasions, Classy, Upscale, and a Neighborhood Gem.
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Payments:
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Cash, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express
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Parking:
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Valet or Street meter parking
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Wifi
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The restaurants reviewed on this site may have Wi-Fi, but do not require you to go online, because the excitement of the food and wine alone will keep you too entertained instead of checking your social media and emails.
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Noise level:
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Medium
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Smoking:
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Nonsmoking restaurant, and nonsmoking patio
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Patio or terrace:
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Yes
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Food Prices
(excludes, alcohol, taxes & 20% gratuity’s)
$£€¥ - Under 50.00 (inexpensive)
$£€¥ x 2 - 51.00- 99.00 (moderate)
$£€¥ x 3 - Over 100.00 (pricey)
$£€¥ x 4 - Over 200.00 (expensive)
$£€¥ x 5 - Over 400.00 (very expensive)
**Currencies reflect the world’s major travelers, restaurant, or wine connoisseur’s**
Currency:
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Price
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United States Dollar (USD)
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$$
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Great Britain Pound Sterling (GBP)
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££
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Canadian Dollar (CAN)
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$$$
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Chinese Yuan (CNY)
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¥¥¥¥¥
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European Union (EUR)
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€€
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Alcohol prices:
$60.00 USD
Commander’s Palace:
1403 Washington Ave
New Orleans, LA 70130
Contact Information:
Restaurant website:
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Maître d or host:
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+1 (504) 899-8221
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Online reservations
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Email Contact:
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Serving hours:
Eastern Standard Time
(GMT, Zulu, or UTC - 5:00)
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Lunch: Mon-Sun
11:30 am - 1:30 pm
Brunch: Sunday
10:00 am - 1:00 pm
Dinner: Mon-Sun
6:00 pm - 10:00 pm
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Social Media
&
Accolades:
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****
The worlds best restaurants is a subjective list of who is writing it and changes on a regular basis. The Wine Dine and Play best experiences are based on my highest rated stared restaurants, meaning that the visit was an outstanding or extraordinary experience. From cafés, chains, mom + pops, hole in the walls, to fine dining including a few Michelin spots. Visit the Top 100 page to see the entire list.
A few to tease you with…
Vibrant Downtown & relaxed coastal cuisine
St. Petersburg, Florida, USA
|
A Parisian style bistro rendez-vous
Monte-Carlo, Monaco
|
Eclectic & innovative gastropub using molecular gastronomy
Tampa, Florida, USA
|
Other Pictures:
“Culinary perfection consists not in doing extraordinary things,
But in doing ordinary things extraordinarily well.”
-Angelique Arnauld (1591-1661)
Who is John Galt?
TTFN