A Peruvian Journey Of The Five Senses In Dubai
Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Cuisine Style: Peruvian
Average Price: $$$
Overall Rating: 5/5
Dined in: August 2018
By Sean Overpeck (CFE)
**A full article and index glossary of restaurants, wines, recipes and travel for
Wine Dine and Play are in the pages section above, or by following these links:
COYA Zomato rating:
COYA Executive Chef:
Alessandro Scala
Sous Chef:
Alvydas Kovas
COYA is a multi-dimensional and multi-sensory journey incorporating taste, smell, sound, touch, and sight around contemporary Peruvian cuisine. The very essence of Peru is explored using the traditional elements of Peruvian cooking, while encompassing the greater melting pot of cultures that have made Peru their home, from the Japanese, Chinese, German, Italian, Spanish, and the native Inca. Peru has one of the world’s most precious and vibrant cultural fusions, Peruvian cuisine is the living legacy of a colorful history played out across three distinct regions of South America: from the vast bountiful Pacific coast to the magnificent Andes ranges, and the lush Amazonian basin.
There are five COYA locations as of 2018 with the first opening in Mayfair, London in 2012 and later a second London location at Angel Court, followed by two in the UAE (Dubai, and Abu Dhabi), and the fifth opening in Monte-Carlo, Monaco. The Dubai location is the focus of this review, located at the restaurant village attached to the Four Seasons Hotel near Jumeirah Beach, overlooking downtown and the Burj Khalifa Tower. COYA is located on the main level of the restaurant village with an Italian and Turkish restaurant below it. You walk down a Burgundy colored path with clay potted plants and benches on either side leading up to a beautifully designed double wooden door with square and arched glass plus the logo name over the entrance top.
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| COYA / Front Entrance |
You enter and pass the host stand to the bar and Pisco lounge to which you can join as an exclusive club member for all COYA restaurants worldwide. The lounge seating facing the window looking out to palm trees and a city view begins with an elegant cast iron double door to a patio area with greenery and plants growing around the top and down both sides to an octagon pattern tiled floor. The lounge continues around in a circle shape with floor to ceiling windows with blue and red couches, leading into the main dining room with yellow chairs and tables. The restaurant is famed for its bespoke décor meaning “made to fit a particular person,” commissioned to a particular specification adding to the uniqueness that is COYA. The bar is layered in seven shelves with a glass tile wall back or mirrored glass, with a four-layer wine rack on top and custom made mini wine kegs and copper pot stills to make Pisco used originally by the Inca.
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| COYA / Bar |
Phillip the bartender was very informative as I began the COYA experience sitting at one of the lounge tables, listening to the stories of drink origins and menu recommendations which included the story of the veal heart and the slave story behind it. The wine list was extensive with selections of old and the new world, though they only had one Peruvian wine on the menu by the bottle. Besides this, the main liquor to represent the region was the Pisco. The main grouping of wines represents Chile and Argentina. I began with a Pisco sour cocktail known as tequila’s sexy cousin. At COYA they infuse their own Pisco, made from grapes produced in copper pot stills very similar to making Single Malt Scotch. Peruvian Pisco is first distilled then goes straight to the bottle with baseline Pisco regulations coming into place in 1991 for greater world export.
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| COYA / Pisco Sour |
The Pisco sour cocktail mixes the Pisco with lime juice, simple syrup, and egg white in a cocktail shaker. The mixture was a perfect texture, lightly tart from the lime, and all flavors matched perfectly together. As a warning, the Pisco Lounge is a smoking lounge, and it is regrettable that if you are a non-smoker that you will have to visit early if you wish to enjoy the lounge without having to deal the with the smoke and smell that comes with cigarettes, and to enter the dining room, you have to walk through the same smoky lounge. When I sat in the dining room it was near the lounge, and later in the evening as the lounge filled up, I could smell the burning tar of the cigarettes. Hopefully one day soon, the UAE incorporates laws like Europe and the United States that bans smoking in restaurants so that you can enjoy the full meal without your sensory aroma being distracted by burnt tobacco.
Menu:
- Aperitivos
- Ceviches
- Tiraditos
- Tacos
- Ensaladas
- Anticuchos
- Para Picar (small dishes)
- Cazuelas
- Pescados Y Mariscos
- Aves Y Carnes
- Acompañantes (sides)
- Desserts
- Tasting Menus
I came to COYA reviewing the menu in advance with a few items in mind, then was pleasantly surprised to be offered a modified sampling menu from the Chef that would introduce to me all the flavors from the three major regions in Peru. Besides the à la carte and lounge menu they offered 4 other menus for parties of ten or more which include the Menu Degustacion, Menu Especial, Menu de La Casa, and the Menu Vegetariano. With the tasting began a long multi-hour Peruvian journey of the five senses, and these are my thoughts…
Each course presented this evening was a small sampling, no more than six to eight total bites per plate, beginning with the ‘Calamres con Ocopa’ with the baby squid dusted in a lite quinoa flour, topped with sliced Peruvian green chiles, plus a wedge slice of lime to squeeze over the dish. The Ocopa sauce was made from the cousin of the marigold flower called a huacatay (“wah-kah-tay”) an herbal leaf found in abundance in the Peruvian Highlands, but also in Bolivia and Ecuador. Ancient Incan’s recognized the herb’s antiviral properties and used it medicinally in Peru. When brewed into tea the herb is known to reduce cold symptoms and improve the health of the respiratory tract. The squid had a lite spice from the chiles, soft and tender feel, and perfectly seasoned. This dish was also served with Phillip delivering another cocktail from the bar called the Chica Sour where slow drips of purple corn and pineapple are infused with eight-year-old Bacardi, Pisco quebranta, fresh lime juice, egg whites, and sugar. The drink was garnished with a slice of purple corn.
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| COYA / Calamres con Ocopa |
The second course was ‘Churros de Papa’ dish which is a name American’s might recognize if they ever look at a dessert menu in an American Mexican restaurant. This seasonal item of soft fried potatoes had strong aromatics and a bold flavor from the manchego cheese and white truffle oil which was a nice European influence on this dish topped off with the cheese shavings and a Peruvian green sauce similar in taste to Aji Verde.
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| COYA / Churros de Papa |
As the Spanish colonized Peru they introduced a dish that has its origins in Moorish cuisine, and today is one of the most popular in the coastal region; ceviche. Citrus fruits mixed with raw fish or shellfish, corn, onion, and potatoes sums up a typical recipe. The strong citrus acid cooks the fish, killing the bacteria, and providing wonderfully vibrant spring flavors to the dish. Nine ceviches encompass the COYA menu from salmon to red snapper, with the chef providing a sample of the ‘Atún Chifa Ceviche’ (tuna). The dish was dressed with the yellowfin tuna, sesame seeds, soy reduction and a rice cracker that helped temper the dish from the flare of Chinese spice. Chifta is the name of a Chinese restaurant in Peru that prepares styles of Chinese-Peruvian fusion dishes. This dish knocked my socks off it was so damn good. To describe it any further would do a disservice, this is a must-have item.
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| COYA / Atún Chifa Ceviche |
Staying with the seafood coastal regions but switching to a more Central American style of cuisine came the taco section of the menu where I would sample three varieties starting with the ‘Aguacate avocado taco’, with quails egg, manchego, smoked yoghurt, and seeds followed by the ‘Cangrejo soft-shell crab taco’ with wasabi aïoli, avocado, and tobiko flying fish roe and ending with the Salmon taco with tomato, marigold, and jalapeno, which was my favorite of the three. It was very refreshing, finished in two bites, lite fish flavor, with the cream chilling the palate almost like an intermezzo course boasted by a cilantro and lime profile flavor adding even more to the dish. The avocado taco had a fried tortilla on the bottom layer, avocado slices, and cream with the same texture as a mild brie. The soft-shell crab was the strongest flavor of the three, tempered by the wasabi, an enjoyable Peruvian-Japanese fusion dish. Another dish consisted of the 'Salmon Curado Sashimi' which was enhanced by the raw salmon textures making it as good as the salmon taco.
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| COYA / Salmon Taco |
When being subjective to writing a review you have to mention a mixture of pro’s and con’s but so far besides the smoking lounge it has been very hard to find any cons, and that would be true for the remainder of the evening which would include the next three small plates consisting of two Bao samplings. Baozi (包子), is a type of filled bun or bread-like dumpling usually steamed and is very similar to the traditional Chinese mantou or steamed bun. The first was the ‘Boa Con Res Wagyu’ filled with the braised short-rib, red onion, and Aji Amarillo sauce followed by the Boa Langosta mixed with tomato, cilantro, and tobiko with a slice of lime. This was then followed by a 'Pulpo Rostizado' sauteed octopus mash with intense flavors, with a nice buttery potato finish.
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| COYA / Bao |
The story Phillip told of the slaves and veal heart was the next course presented and served on the table in a small boxed charcoal grill served on two marinated skewers called Anticuchos. On the menu, the dish was called ‘Tradicional’ marinated with aji chili and ricotta, with parsley. I have eaten at several restaurants that incorporate whole animal carvery from Alinea in Chicago to Holman and Finch Public House in Atlanta however, this was the first time I had tried veal heart. I was expecting a gamier texture but surprisingly found it to be a little mild with the same type of profile and taste of strip-loin.
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| COYA / Veal Heart Kebabs |
The third drink from the bar was the Pisco Punch, a Pisco Italia style, with homemade pineapple sugar, fresh orange and lime juices, and a dried orange garnish. The drink was very refreshing especially thanks to the pineapple flavor, but honestly was not my favorite of the drink selections. Finishing off the small plates menu section was two selections starting with a burrata accompanied by tomatoes, grapes, pomegranates, pickled aji limo, and botija olives. The lite oil drizzle blended nicely with the sweet pungent pomegranate which was a nice profile to the creamy texture of the burrata. The second selection was the ‘Cangrejo al Coco Salad’ mixed with king crab, avocado, and Russian oscietra royal caviar. The dish had some slight spice that was tempered by the cream mixture and wonderfully fresh sliced avocado.
One of Peru’s neighbors to the South in Chile and to its southern borders near the Southern Ocean is Patagonia and the famous light flaky and very mild tooth-fish sea-bass more commonly known as Chilean Sea-Bass, labeled on the menu as ‘Lubina Chilena’ sitting on a liquid bed of aji Amarillo sauce, corn, and red peppers. It had a wonderful presentation that from the eye would attract anyone, and from the first bite of the sauce was filled with tons of spice and flavors making it more complex than most sea-bass recipes which made up for the lacking of overall flavor that I found in the sea-bass. This was not the first time I had tried this fish and experienced the same. I loved the dish, but would not have ordered it if I was eating à la carte for that very reason.
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| COYA / Lubina Chilena |
The next dish would melt in my mouth which would help bring a near conclusion to the sensory overload I had already experienced in a very good way. The dish was the ‘Lomo de Res’, a spicy tenderloin beef filet, with crispy shallots, and garlic cooked to a perfectionate medium rare temperature where every bite was better than the last. Also being served with a small side plate of ‘Patatas Bravas’ which are crispy fried potatoes, spicy tomatoes, and a huancaina cheese sauce made with Aji Amarillo peppers, queso, and heavy cream.
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| COYA / Lomo de Res |
If I were to pick my three favorite dishes for the evening, then the 'Lomo de Res' would be at the top of the list along with the salmon taco, and the ‘Atún Chifa Ceviche.’
Dessert:
Desserts were broken down into three courses and the final bar drink from Phillip for the evening called the El Capitán which was a blending of Pisco Acholado, Cherry Heering, Carpano Antica Fresh pineapple, carrot juice, and ginger honey. There are three types of Pisco; Pure (Puro), Acholado (a blend), and Mosto Verde (Green Must). The first dessert was the ‘Cheesecake de Maracuyá’ which was a passion fruit cheesecake, served with roasted mango, kiwicha, and mango sorbet. Next came the Chicha Morada, a Peruvian purple corn colada, with passion fruit, blueberry, and strawberry, topped with orange shortbread. Very refreshing and was good palette cleanser which after the richness of the dessert to come was the perfect selection and timing from the kitchen.
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| COYA / El Capitán |
That third selection was the Chocolate Fundido with Fortunato No. 4 chocolate, coconut, roasted white chocolate, and ice cream. Thought to be extinct, today the tale of Pure Nacional cacao beans takes a delicious twist. It had been recently rediscovered when in 2010 on the remote Maranon canyon in Peru. It is filled with hints of floral, fruity, nutty flavors. It was originally discovered in the early1800s in Ecuador, and later the cacao trees were decimated by disease, and surviving disease-resistant and hybrid varieties never compared. To describe this dessert only needs one word…amazing.
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| COYA / Chocolate Fundido |
The final dessert and final dish of the evening was the Sundae de Maíz a corn sundae with sweet corn ice-cream and pieces pineapple popcorn, topped with a sprinkle of shaved coconut. Finishing with this was nice, but my thoughts still lingered on the chocolate, and if these desserts had switched places, I would be in a coma as this sundae was a nice cleanser for the rich chocolate.
Please see these guidelines for Tipping in Restaurants and on following proper etiquette, customs, cultures, and avoiding assumptions when you dine out.
Other Noteworthy Peruvian and South American Articles and Restaurants similar to COYA:
Peruvian cuisine reflects local practices and ingredients, including influences from the indigenous population of Inca and cuisines brought in with immigrants from Europe, Asia, and West Africa. Without the familiar ingredients from their home countries, immigrants modified their traditional cuisines by using ingredients available in Peru. The four traditional staples of Peruvian cuisine are corn, potatoes, and other tubers, Amaranthaceaes (quinoa, kañiwa, and kiwicha) and legumes (beans and lupins).
Ají Verde Sauce A traditional Peruvian green chili sauce recipe served with chicken dishes
Chupe de Camarones A thick hearty chowder made with shrimp, potato, and legumes in Peru
Lomo Saltado A Peruvian chifa beef stir fry with potatoes and soy
Papa Rellena Peruvian fried stuffed potatoes recipe
Peruvian Cuisine Andes, Amazon, and Lima - A culinary tour with recipes and history
Peruvian Rice (Arroz Peruano) Long grained rice seasoned with lemon juice, and Ortega chilies
Pollo a la Brasa Peruvian blackened chicken or rotisserie chicken with chili sauce marinades
Suspiro a la Limeña Silky Peruvian dulce de leche custard with Port meringue dessert recipe
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary”
Other Dubai restaurants, and articles on Wine Dine and Play:
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A Modern Twist on Emirati Cuisine
Dubai, UAE
|
A French Style Wine Bar at the Conrad Hotel
Dubai, UAE
|
“Mastic” Ice-cream
Deira, Dubai, UAE
|
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary by country”
Final notes, review basics, observations, and more pictures:
Most reviews are subjective, depending on the writer; but they should also be responsible, and respectfully written, upholding the truth, and accurately conveying the experience to the best of the writer's knowledge, even if it includes metaphors the restaurant may not like to read about. My ratings are by the stars I award (from 0 to 5). The rating is calculated on a point accumulation of six separate factors based on individual experience. They include wine and other beverage selections, plate presentation, customer service, restaurant or café ambiance, food quality, and wow factor. To see more details of this rating list, read this article:
Overall from this experience and the score factors outlined in the ‘about page’ section, based on my individual experience and rating, I give COYA Dubai a 5 out of 5 stars, meaning that they not only exceeded my expectations and were far above the average dining experience of most restaurants, but they surpassed outstanding and were extraordinary. This has been the best Peruvian restaurant I have been to and look forward to one day visiting Peru to eat at Central, Astrid And Gastón, and 1087 Bistro. Lima in Dubai will have to be my next Peruvian stop to see how they compare.
Scores are detailed in the factor chart below:
Formula Factor Conclusions and Overall Ratings for COYA Dubai
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Max Points Possible:
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Total Points Awarded:
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Total Points deducted:
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Ambiance
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11
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11
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0
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Food quality
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11
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10
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1
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Plate presentation
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11
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11
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0
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Customer service
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12
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11
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1
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Alcohol and other beverages
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10
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7
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3
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Total regular points awarded
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55
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50
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5
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Total percentage — less the Bonus
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0.909090909090909
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“Wow” factor BONUS
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5
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4
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0
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Total bonus percentage
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0.0727272727272727
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Total percentage and bonus for a final star rating
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0.981818181818182
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Stars Awarded (see chart below)
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0 - 5
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5
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**A full break down and explanation of the observations and point disbursement is available in the linked article above. To receive a detailed copy of your score, feel free to contact me at any time and I will provide it to you.**
***
Overall Star Rating:
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5 of 5 Stars:
98% Rating with a 4 point “wow” bonus
An Extraordinary Dining Experience
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COYA Wine rating:
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6 of 10
Old World selections:
Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Lebanon, Romania, Spain
New World selections:
Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa, Washington State
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Corkage fees:
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COYA does not list any corkage fee’s however, most American restaurants charge
$25.00 per bottle
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Restaurant style:
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Conservative dining
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Cuisine Style at COYA:
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Peruvian
Allergen or dietary accommodations:
Gluten-free, Halal, Low Carb Choices, Organic, Pescatarian, Vegetarian Options
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Reservations:
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Required
Walk-Ins:
Accepted, but not guaranteed
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Dress code:
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Smart casual attire
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Child policy:
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The Restaurants reviewed on this site may have a kids menu or cater to them; however, for full enjoyment of food and wine, it is recommended that kids not to be in attendance, unless they have been trained in proper etiquette.
If not then:
Hire a Babysitter!
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COYA
Experiences:
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Place for foodies, Contemporary, Modern, Trendy, Lounge, Business parties, Hotspot, Great bar, Good for special occasions, Beautiful décor, Classy, Upscale, and a Neighborhood Gem.
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Payments:
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Cash, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express
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Parking:
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COYA has a complimentary valet and a private lot
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Wifi
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The restaurants reviewed on this site may have Wi-Fi, but do not require you to go online, because the excitement of the food and wine alone will keep you too entertained instead of checking your social media and emails.
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Noise level:
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Medium
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Smoking:
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COYA is a non-smoking restaurant, with a non-smoking patio
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Patio or terrace:
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Yes
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Food Prices
(excludes, alcohol, taxes & 20% gratuity’s)
$£€¥ - Under 50.00 (inexpensive)
$£€¥ x 2 - 51.00- 99.00 (moderate)
$£€¥ x 3 - Over 100.00 (pricey)
$£€¥ x 4 - Over 200.00 (expensive)
$£€¥ x 5 - Over 400.00 (very expensive)
**Currencies reflect the world’s major travelers, restaurant, or wine connoisseur’s**
Currency:
|
Price
|
Emirati Dirham (AED)
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د.إ
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United States Dollar (USD)
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$$$
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Great Britain Pound Sterling (GBP)
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£££
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Canadian Dollar (CAN)
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$$$$
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Chinese Yuan (CNY)
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¥¥¥¥¥
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European Union (EUR)
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€€€
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Alcohol prices:
$50.00 USD
COYA Dubai:
Restaurant Village
Four Seasons Resort
Jumeirah Beach Road, Jumeirah 2
PO Box 71384
Dubai, UAE
Contact Information:
Restaurant website:
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Maître d or host:
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+971 (0) 4 316 9600
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Online reservations:
Via email:
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Email contact:
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Serving hours:
UAE standard Time
(GMT, Zulu, or UTC - BST Offset + 4:00)
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Lunch: Mon-Sun
12:30 pm - 4:00 pm
Dinner: Wed - Fri
7:00 pm - 12:00 am
Sat-Tue
7:00 pm - 11:30 pm
Pisco Lounge:
12:30 pm - 2:00 am
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Social Media
And
Accolades for Coya:
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****
The worlds best restaurants is a subjective list of who is writing it and changes on a regular basis. The Wine Dine and Play best experiences are based on my highest rated stared restaurants, meaning that the visit was an outstanding or extraordinary experience. From cafés, chains, mom + pops, hole in the walls, to fine dining including a few Michelin spots. Visit the Top 100 page to see the entire list.
A few to tease you with…
|
Top 10 American fine-dining ornate chophouse
Charleston, South Carolina, USA
|
Turkish culinary journey with an eclectic European twist
Plaza Versace Hotel, Dubai, UAE
|
Seasonal Irish with French gastronomic dining
Dublin, Ireland
|
Other COYA Pictures:
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| COYA / Dubai |
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| COYA / Pisco Lounge |
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| COYA / Pisco stills |
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| COYA / Pisco Lounge dining |
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| COYA / Salvador Dali Art / Picture courtesy of COYA |
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| COYA / The Four Seasons Dubai / Picture courtesy of COYA |
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| COYA / Dining Room |
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| COYA / Main Dining Room |
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| COYA / Table Art / Picture courtesy of COYA |
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| COYA / Dining table |
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| COYA / Chica Sour Cocktail |
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| COYA / Pisco Punch Cocktail |
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| COYA / Aguacate Avocado Taco |
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| COYA / Burrata |
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| COYA / Bao Wagyu |
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| COYA / Bao Lobster |
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| COYA / Cangrejo al Coco Salad |
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| COYA / Patatas Bravas |
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| COYA / Pulpo Rostizado Octopus Mash |
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| COYA / Salmon Curado Sashimi |
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| COYA / Aguacate avocado taco |
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| COYA / Sushi / Picture courtesy of COYA |
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| COYA / Cheesecake de Maracuyá |
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| COYA / Sundae de Maíz |
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| COYA / Chicha Morada |
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| COYA / Cangrejo soft-shell crab taco |
“Culinary perfection consists not in doing extraordinary things,
But in doing ordinary things extraordinarily well.”
-Angelique Arnauld (1591-1661)
Who is John Galt?
TTFN
