An Extraordinary Taste Of Ireland
Dublin, Ireland
Cuisine Style: French, Irish
Average Price: $$$$
Overall Rating: 5/5
Dined in: December 2013
By Sean Overpeck (CFE)
**A full article and index glossary of restaurants, wines, recipes and travel for
Wine Dine and Play are in the pages section above, or by following these links:
Head Chef:
Derry Clarke
Sous Chef:
Lumir Tousek
Sommelier:
Martina Delaney
It was a cold winter’s day, but I had enjoyed doing a tour of the city seeing things such as the Book of Kells, Dublin Castle, and the Guinness Storehouse. Most of all I was looking forward to dinner at the top-rated Michelin restaurant in all of Dublin according to Elite Traveler Magazine and based on the meal, I foresee a possible position in the top 100 restaurants in the world one day. The restaurant is l’Ecrivain, and it would be the best meal and Restaurant that I ate at while visiting Dublin, to rate higher in my opinion than Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, where I dined the night before, and Elite Traveler has them in the top 100 but not l’Ecrivain, a true tragedy.
Menu:
- Starters
- Main courses
- Desserts
- Group dinner menus
- Monthly seasonal menus
- Tasting Menu
- Lunch Menu
Dublin born chef Derry trained in the classical French tradition in the Man Friday in Kinsale. He came home to Dublin to continue his training under the direction of John Howard in the restaurant Le Coq Hardi for four years. He then spent 8 years as the head chef in le Bon Appetit Restaurant where his aspirations were always to open a place of his own. Derry and Sallyanne married in 1987 and opened l'Ecrivain Restaurant in July 1989. l'Ecrivain stands on the site of two old Georgian Coach Houses/Mews in its own charming courtyard. Over 25 years on, l'Ecrivain is going from strength to strength.
I began with a casual walk to l’Ecrivain since I had time to kill, passing St. Stephens Green Park and the Huguenot Cemetery from 1693. Though the cemetery was small it had reminded me of the Huguenot memorial I had seen a week before in Franschhoek, South Africa. I was near to the restaurant when in nature’s sarcasm to add to the cold, it started to rain. Once I arrived the main hostess took my jacket, and introduced me to Martina Delaney, the Sommelier for l’Ecrivain, and she escorted me upstairs. On the ground level were the main bar and private dining area, as well as a waiting area and lounge. The second floor held the main kitchen and dining room, with a third level for overflow dining.
When I made my reservation several months before I had requested the 10-course tasting menu which was one of six separate menus the restaurant had besides the à la carte menu. I did, however, opt out of the wine pairings that went with the tasting menu and ordered a bottle, but as I describe the courses below, I will include the sommelier’s pairings and tasting notes. Besides a still bottle of Tipperary water, my wine bottle selection was a 2011 Albariño from Fillaboa Winery, in Rias Baixas region, Spain. A 100% Albariño, that the winemakers' notes show as a straw-colored yellow with a bright and clear appearance, very aromatic with notes of pineapple, apple, stone fruits and hints of citrus, with slightly reminiscent of yogurt and an outstanding intensity and frankness. On the palate, the attack is smooth and elegant, with great structure, good balance of flavors and well-integrated acidity. A lush, smooth and elegant wine with a lingering aftertaste.
The Wine Regulatory for this selection was through:
C. R. de la D.O: Denominación de Origen
As a starter, while my wine was being procured from the cellar was a series of bread, consisting of a multi-seed, black olive, and a confit lemon served with a honey buttermilk with mustard seed butter.
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| Bread series |
The amuse course was a crab and celery foam with celery pickles and coriander spice, very vibrant and waking the senses, a very good amuse that would have me guessing the styles of the dishes to come.
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| Crab and celery foam |
The next course was a scallop dish (U 10/20) with a chestnut puree spread, resting next to a compressed apple, pistachio flakes, and smoked bacon. The scallop was a very good size and perfectly cooked, the smokiness of the bacon really paired well with the chestnut, bringing out the flavor of the scallop itself. This course was paired with a wine similar to the bottle I chose, a 2011 Albariño by Álvaro Palacios, Hesperia from Lumina, Spain.
 |
| Scallop dish |
The next course was an Atlantic Halibut tail with leeks, haricots verts beans, trompette mushrooms, confit chicken, fermented garlic potato dauphine, artichoke, verjus and celeriac Maconnais Saint Veran “Les Creches” sauce. I felt the halibut was a little dry, but once mixed with the other ingredients turned out very well. The wine paired with this course was a 2011 Domaine Saumaize Michelin Pouilly-Fuissé Pentacrine.
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| Atlantic Halibut tail |
The next item was listed as a palate cleanser consisting of a lemon-thyme sorbet, mixed with lemonade in a shot glass. You mix together with the teaspoon provided, then either shoot the entire thing or take small sips with the spoon.
Course number five on the tasting menu was a seared foie gras dish, sitting on a bed of quince and foie gras yoghurt, with quince chutney, bacon roll, and a brioche shortbread, an excellent dish, but then I have a prejudice, because I enjoy foie gras since half of the United States has banned it, saying it is cruel and unusual punishment to animals. The wine paired with this dish was a Grandjo late harvest Semillon.
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| Seared foie gras |
The next course, number six was a quail dish, which I thought was the best-presented dish of the evening, served with pickled quail eggs, chanterelle mushrooms, salsify, and a butternut squash purée. This dish was served with a glass of 2010 Spätburgunder Trocken Wagner Stempel, Rheinhessen.
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| Quail dish |
Course number seven was a confit Wicklow venison shank medallions with chestnuts, chervil root, beetroot, pearl barley, and pigs blood granola with rose hips jus. It was paired with a glass of 2010 Domaine D'Aupilhac Montpeyroux Languedoc-Roussillon.
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| Venison shank |
Dessert:
The eighth course or “pre-dessert” and the first of three was a salted caramel mousse with pickled apples, sitting on a bed of clotted cream, topped with apple sorbet and a side of cinnamon crumbles. This dish was paired with a 2008 Capitelli Passito, Anselmi, Veneto.
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| Salted caramel mousse |
The ninth course was a warm dark chocolate brownie with almonds, chocolate parfait, and an orange slice with almond tulie topped with a burnt orange jus. This dish was paired with a 2007 Mouchão winho licoroso.
 |
| Dark chocolate brownie |
Lastly, with some coffee, I enjoyed some petit fours of white chocolate, praline ganache lollypop with sesame seeds and Japanese honey. A very good conclusion to a wonderful meal that I will not soon forget and want to try again upon my return to Ireland.
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| Praline ganache lollypop |
As I left, it started to rain again, and being me, I decided to walk back to my hotel instead of getting a taxi, then ended up getting sick that night and all the next day, which made me modify my tourism plans. So, take it from me, when it rains in Ireland, don’t be brave, and take a cab.
Please see these guidelines for Tipping in Restaurants and on following proper etiquette, customs, cultures, and avoiding assumptions when you dine out.
Other Noteworthy Irish and French Cuisine Articles & Restaurants:
O’Brein’s Irish Pub - Convivial sports bar with Irish pub grub in Brandon, Florida
O’Maddy’s Bar and Grille Waterfront American Eats and drinks in Gulfport, Florida
French Cuisine:
Aria Restaurant Modern Australian haute cuisine in Sydney, Australia
Bistrot La Minette Charming French Bistro with movie filmed terrace in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Bordeaux - A Sip and Taste Wine tours and restaurants in Bordeaux, France
Cave Dubai A French Style Wine Bar at the Conrad Hotel, Downtown Dubai, UAE
Chef Bernard Loiseau Is Michelin at fault?
HobNob Restaurant French & Canadian cuisine at The Charles Hotel, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada
La Colombe Country-style local ingredients w/French flair in Cape Town, South Africa
La Cote Basque Winehouse French & continental cuisine in Gulfport, Florida
La Petite Maison Relaxed French-Italian Restaurant at the DFIC in Dubai, UAE
Le Grand Chancelier Countryside French Bistro in Cheverny, Loire Valley, France
Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire Posh & artful French cuisine + culinary experimentalism Dubai, UAE
Restaurant Le Gabriel Haute Gastronomique French restaurant & bistro in Bordeaux, France
Rostang, The French Brasserie Contemporary Parisian cuisine at Atlantis in Dubai, UAE
Tetsuya’s Eclectic French-Asian Tasting Menu restaurant in Sydney, Australia
The Brasserie at the Café de Paris A Parisian style bistro rendez-vous in Monte-Carlo, Monaco
The Dutch Kitchen Buffet of Dutch and French cuisine at the Schiphol Airport, Amsterdam
The French Laundry French-American fine dining restaurant in Yountville, California
The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français African-French tasting menu in Franschhoek, SA
The Test Kitchen Modern eclectic and Nouvelle Latin cuisine in Cape Town, South Africa
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary”
Other Dublin restaurants and articles on Wine Dine and Play:
|
Eclectic Irish cuisine
Dublin, Ireland
(Now Called The Coburg Brasserie)
|
(NOW 1837 BAR & BRASSERIE)
Irish Bistro at the Guinness Storehouse
Dublin, Ireland
|
Impeccably prepared French fine dining
Dublin, Ireland
|
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary by country”
Final notes, review basics, observations and more pictures:
Most reviews are subjective, depending on the writer; but they should also be responsible, and respectfully written, upholding the truth, and accurately conveying the experience to the best of the writer's knowledge, even if it includes metaphors the restaurant may not like to read about. My ratings are by the stars I award (from 0 to 5). The rating is calculated on a point accumulation of six separate factors based on individual experience. They include wine and other beverage selections, plate presentation, customer service, restaurant or café ambiance, food quality, and wow factor. To see more details of this rating list, read this article:
Scores are detailed in the factor chart below:
Formula Factor Conclusions and Overall Ratings
|
Max Points Possible:
|
Total Points Awarded:
|
Total Points deducted:
|
Ambiance
|
10
|
9
|
1
|
Food quality
|
10
|
9
|
1
|
Plate presentation
|
9
|
8
|
1
|
Customer service
|
9
|
9
|
0
|
Alcohol and other beverages
|
9
|
8
|
1
|
Total regular points awarded
|
47
|
43
|
4
|
Total percentage Before Bonus
|
0.914893617021277
| ||
“Wow” factor BONUS
|
5
|
3
|
0
|
Total bonus percentage
|
0.0638297872340425
| ||
Total percentage with a bonus for the final star rating
|
0.978723404255319
| ||
Stars Awarded (see chart below)
|
0 - 5
|
5
|
**A full break down and explanation of the observations and point disbursement is available in the linked article above. To receive a detailed copy of your score, feel free to contact me at any time and I will provide it to you.**
***
Overall Star Rating:
|
5 of 5 Stars:
98% Rating with a 3 point “wow” bonus
An Extraordinary Dining Experience
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Wine List:
| |
Wine rating:
|
6.5 of 10
Old World selections:
Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, Spain
New World selections:
Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa
|
Corkage fee’s:
|
European standard is €30.00 per bottle
|
Restaurant style:
|
Formal dining
|
Cuisine style:
|
French, Irish
Allergen or dietary accommodations:
Farm to Fork, Gluten Free, Grass Fed, Local, Organic, Pescatarian, Sustainable, Vegetarian Options
|
Reservations:
|
Required
Walk-Ins:
Accepted, but not guaranteed
|
Dress code:
|
Formal or Semi-formal attire
Gentleman – Dress Coats, Dinner Jackets, or Smart Business Attire
Ladies – Semi Formals, Cocktail Dresses, or Formal Gowns
|
Child policy:
|
The Restaurants reviewed on this site may have a kids menu or cater to them; however, for full enjoyment of food and wine, it is recommended that kids not to be in attendance, unless they have been trained in proper etiquette.
If not then:
Hire a Babysitter!
|
Experiences:
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Place for foodies, Modern, Business parties, Romantic, Hotspot, Great bar, Good for special occasions, Intimate, Upscale, and a Neighborhood Gem.
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Payments:
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Cash, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express
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Parking:
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Valet or Street meter parking
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Wifi
|
The restaurants reviewed on this site may have Wi-Fi, but do not require you to go online, because the excitement of the food and wine alone will keep you too entertained instead of checking your social media and emails.
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Noise level:
|
Low
|
Smoking:
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Nonsmoking restaurant
|
Patio or terrace:
|
No
|
Food Prices
(excludes, alcohol, taxes & 20% gratuity’s)
$£€¥ - Under 50.00 (inexpensive)
$£€¥ x 2 - 51.00- 99.00 (moderate)
$£€¥ x 3 - Over 100.00 (pricey)
$£€¥ x 4 - Over 200.00 (expensive)
$£€¥ x 5 - Over 400.00 (very expensive)
**Currencies reflect the world’s major travelers, restaurant, or wine connoisseur’s**
Currency:
|
Price
|
European Union (EUR)
|
€€
|
United States Dollar (USD)
|
$$$
|
Great Britain Pound Sterling (GBP)
|
££
|
Canadian Dollar (CAN)
|
$$$
|
Chinese Yuan (CNY)
|
¥¥¥¥¥
|
Alcohol prices:
€52.00 EUR
l’Ecrivain:
109A Lower Baggot Street
Dublin, Ireland
Contact Information:
Restaurant website:
| |
Maître d or host:
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+353 1 676 4192
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Online reservations
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Email Contact:
| |
Serving hours:
Greenwich Mean Time or
British Summer Time BST
(GMT, Zulu, or UTC - BST Offset + 1:00)
Ireland is on GMT
|
Dinner: Mon-Sat
6:30 pm - 110:00 pm
Closed Sunday
|
Social Media
&
Accolades:
| |
****
The worlds best restaurants is a subjective list of who is writing it and changes on a regular basis. The Wine Dine and Play best experiences are based on my highest rated stared restaurants, meaning that the visit was an outstanding or extraordinary experience. From cafés, chains, mom + pops, hole in the walls, to fine dining including a few Michelin spots. Visit the Top 100 page to see the entire list.
A few to tease you with…
|
Rooftop Artisan Fusion Bistro
St. Pete Beach, Florida, USA
|
A walk into the Piemonte with a contemporary twist
DIFC, Dubai, UAE
|
Contemporary Cape Malay Cuisine
Cape Town, South Africa
|
Other Pictures:
“Culinary perfection consists not in doing extraordinary things,
But in doing ordinary things extraordinarily well.”
-Angelique Arnauld (1591-1661)
Who is John Galt?
TTFN
