Classical Fine Dining In Modern Context
Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Cuisine Style: Molecular, Australian
Average Price: $$$$$
Overall Rating: 5/5
Dined in: March 2015
By Sean Overpeck (CFE)
**A full article and index glossary of restaurants, wines, recipes and travel for
Wine Dine and Play are in the pages section above, or by following these links:
Executive Chef:
Chef / Owner:
How do you define perfection in food? Coming from a food service veteran and inspiring chef like me, that is a hard goal to not only reach but to achieve as well. There are many fantastic restaurants in this world, whether they be fine dining or not, cost a fortune, or be very reasonably priced. This is why it is hard to identify perfection when writing a restaurant review. You have to not only take food into account but the atmosphere, wine, service, the overall big picture. It could be a restaurant on the Elite Travelers or San Pellegrino’s Top 100 List or just a simple neighborhood gem known only to the locals. Vue de Monde came very close to perfection for me, knocking out the number six on my top 100 list, and inching closer to Alinea in Chicago which has been my number one since 2013. On elite Travelers Vu de Monde is listed as 81 on the 2015 top 100 list, down a few from the previous year, but still for me, near perfection. Here is why…
Originally housed in a terrace building on Drummond Street Carlton, Vue de monde relocated in 2005 to the Normanby Chambers in Melbourne’s central business district. Evolving from a classical French style restaurant Vue de Monde chef/owner Shannon Bennett was awarded the Australian Gourmet Traveller's inaugural 'Best New Talent' Award in 2003. It was the move to the new premises that Vue de monde achieved widespread critical acclaim and international recognition, including a 19/20 from The Age Good Food Guide.
In June 2011 Vue de monde relocated to the 55th floor of Melbourne’s iconic Rialto building, which challenged the notion that great dining cannot exist at great heights. A pared back and sophisticated space, the design reflects on Australia’s history - it references Melbourne’s glory days during the gold rush and other cultural icons including the outback dunny! With the sweeping views across the city and beyond, plus a stunning neon conceptual art piece by seminal artist Joseph Kosuth - interpreting one of Charles Darwin’s sketches - forms the backdrop for the restaurant. The ‘view’ is finally in Vue de Monde.
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| Rialto tower |
It seemed to be my lucky week for a visit to Australia. I had already booked reservations at Attica in Ripponlea just outside of Melbourne, three months in advance, and on my first day in country viewing the Yarra Valley wineries I was confirmed for Tetsuya’s and Quay Restaurants in Sydney, the next city on my journey. That evening I was able to secure a lunch reservation for Vue de Monde. Now to most people, the named restaurants mean nothing, but to a Chef such as myself and other Restaurant Connoisseur’s, these 4 names are listed on the top one hundred restaurants of the world list (2014), and one of my little travel bucket lists is to visit all of them.
The Rialto Towers in downtown Melbourne, Australia completed in 1986 at 63 stories tall, replaced a 5-story Victorian era building that was rated as the tallest building in the city back in 1885. The Rialto was the tallest building in all of Australia until the Eureka Tower at 91 stories was built in 2006, across the Yarra River from Rialto. Vue de Monde has its own private elevator, and a concierge/guard desk by the elevator entrance on the ground floor. If you do not have a reservation listed on his computer, you're not going up.
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| Concierge/guard desk to Vu de Monde |
Outside the entrance to the towers are a group of sculptures called the Reuniting Family dedicated to Italian Immigrants coming to Australia. At the guard, desk were books published by chef Bennett and available for sale to those that wanted them upon leaving. The guard escorted me to the elevator, pressed the button, and up I went as he remained on the ground level. As the doors opened, they led directly to the Lui Bar, which is connected to the main dining room for Vue de Monde, with floor to ceiling windows facing south to the bay, and side views of the city across the Yarra River to the Eureka Tower, and the parks. Above the main bar hung Mikala Dwyer's ‘chandelier’ of transparent clouds, a special commission from her series ‘Empty Sculptures’, and an eye catcher it was.
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| ‘Empty Sculptures’ by Mikala Dwyer |
Around the bar were small tables, love seats, and very relaxing chairs, with interesting purple flower designs situated near the windows for the view. The cocktail lists were divided into three sections labeled ‘yesterday,' ‘today,’ and 'tomorrow' charting the evolution and innovation of Melbourne’s drinking culture. Examples included the Negroni a 1920s style energy cocktail. The outer cover of the drink menu was bound by leather and old tattered cloth, giving it a very comfort refreshing feel compared to most menus you pick up from bars. The bartender had a large hacksaw out and was cutting a large square piece of ice as I entered and took a seat, waiting for the main dining room to open. I started the experience with a glass of 2012 Chardonnay from Toolangi Vineyards of Yarra Valley. The winemaker notes show the wine as a single vineyard fruit, selectively hand-harvested and low cropped (2.5 to 3 tonnes per acre), from their Dixons Creek Vineyard. Strong flinty and sweet oak aromas, blending with nectarine and white peach. Elegant, but bold flavors and a smooth, rich textural mouth-feel. Some chalky acidity and a lengthy finish.
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| Bartender sawing the ice |
Entering the dining room, I saw that most tables were facing the views of the city, and an open-air square kitchen with expediting line facing all the guests' tables in the center. The table was draped with a strapped leather covering and had five items in its center, four of which were oddly shaped rocks, one of which held the crushed pepper and sea salt, along with a wooden stick of irregular design where the server would place the assorted flatware setting of Christofle, a high-end Parisian set, made of sterling silver.
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| Dining table |
The kitchen area impressed me not for being open to the dining room like several restaurants are, but to the overall design and uses of it. At the end of my meal, I was given a tour by the dining room manager to see the new revolutionary uses and sustainability of the equipment and the use of their products. The hood and vent system was not bulky or made the loud noise of sucking air up, but quite, and yet more effective then a normal hood and vent system. No open gas was used, and all burners were induction technology, which heats an item using magnetic induction instead of thermal induction or electric heat elements. Induction cooking provides faster heating, improved thermal efficiency, and more consistent heating than cooking by thermal conduction, with precise control similar to gas. The induction element has heating performance comparable to a gas burner but is significantly more energy-efficient. They had Combitherm ovens in the back, which are an all-in-one solution for efficient and consistent volume food production. You can replace a convection oven, kettle, steamer, fryer, smoker, and dehydrator with just this one piece of equipment. The handwash sinks used the e-water system, a technology that combines low levels of electricity, common salt and ordinary tap water in a process known as electrolysis – the same basic process used to create bleach. Light saline water passes through an electrolytic cell and is output as two highly functional and completely safe solutions – a sanitizer/disinfectant and a cleaner/degreaser. With this water, you can now be able to replace caustic chemical cleaners and toxic sanitizers. These revolutionary steps are being taken to make the restaurant as efficient as possible, saving money, and being environmentally sustainable as well.
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| First kitchen tour |
The Gastronomes Menu, which began with assorted starters such as an oyster, then using the placements of rocks on the table, other smaller items were brought out and placed on the rocks for me to eat in any order I wished. The wood holder for the flatware was removed and a small bowl was put into its place containing pine smoked salmon pearls with shaved radish, beets, and greens.
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| Assorted starters |
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| Pine smoked salmon pearls |
The service began, very professional, and employed a diverse group of people ranging from Australian, American, and French. On one larger rock were two skewers of BBQ lamb hearts, while on another smaller rock was a cube selection of a ducks tongue with Tasmanian Mountain Pepper native to the woodlands of South-Eastern Australia. The lamb was very mild in taste compared to most heavier lamb flavors, and the BBQ was barely noticeable. The duck tongue was very flavorful, and when I look back at the menu I thought to myself, ‘that was duck tongue?’
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| Tasmanian mountain pepper |
The next item to come out on a salted board was a cured Wallaby, the native ancestor to a Kangaroo, it tasted fatty and gamey, so the salt cure helped the flavor immensely.
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| Wallaby |
Finally to finish out the introduction of starters, exciting my palette to prepare me for the next grouping of courses was a mousse style dish of smoked eel, with white chocolate and caviar. I hadn’t had an eel in over five years since I was in Bordeaux dining at Restaurant Le Gabriel where eel was one of the main courses on their degustation menu. With these assorted courses, I enjoyed a glass of 2010 Stonier ‘Windmill’ Pinot Noir, from Mornington Peninsula in Victoria a two-hour drive south of Melbourne, an excellent but pricey Pinot Noir ($390.00 AUS per bottle). The winemaker writes that the wine has the complex flavors only encountered in classic styles of Pinot Noir, with typical tannin structure from the whole bunch portion, which ensures longevity with delicacy. The complex tannin structure is supported by bright red fruits and earthy raspberries.
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| Smoked eel mousse |
The next two courses on the menu, now going into my first hour of dining, and enjoying every minute of the experience was a barramundi tail with rolled potato, chicken sauce, and caviar. The barramundi has flesh which is a pearly-pink when raw and white when cooked. Barramundi or Asian sea bass as it is known has firm flesh with large moist flakes and a sweet, buttery flavor profile. The skin is also edible and crisps up nicely.
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| Barramundi tail |
The second course following the barramundi was the Blackmore Wagyu, served with pearl onion skins, and mustard greens, sautéed table-side, then drizzled with a wonderfully light flavored sauce. Blackmore Wagyu is an award-winning and internationally recognized producer of 100% Full-blood Australian Wagyu beef.
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| Cooking the Blackmore Wagyu |
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| Wagyu presentation |
It was now time for the intermezzo Course, starting with a nice glass of bubbly, NV Charles Heidsieck ‘Brut Reserve’ from Reims, Champagne. The winemaker explains that this particular blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. A judicious selection of approximately 60 crus, 40% of reserve wines, many of them more than 10 years old. A golden champagne, with persistent effervescence and a nose that is both complex and delicious. Crisp Palette with lush plum and ripe cherry. Things were really starting to get exciting. The Intermezzo was a cucumber sorbet with wood sorrel, but what made it exciting was that it was pumped with liquid nitrogen to make it super cold. I love Molecular Gastronomy!
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| Cucumber sorbet with liquid nitrogen |
After the palate cleanser went down and cleared me out it was time to switch gears to a duck yolk salad, with smaller cubed pear pieces, and shaved black truffle. I usually don’t see black truffle on menus that often do to the price, with The French Laundry being the last place, and they charged an additional $100.00 to add it.
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| Duck yolk salad with black truffle |
The next course was homemade bread, with a unique service. Another stone was brought to the table, except this one was very warm, and a leather pouch made from kangaroo skin with the bread inside it was placed on top, to keep the bread warm. The butter served was a presentation in itself as the service staff brought over an old churning machine, and presented the made in-house butter. What is the main difference between this older method that has been around since 3500 B.C, versus just buying butter and making something with it? Butter must contain 80% minimum butterfat by United States law, while in France, butter must be composed of at least 82% fat. Home churned butter will be right up there in the 86-88% range. Commercial butter is a very uniform dispersion of water in oil, leaving out the true quality of home-style butter. After the churning, the server formed the butter into an oval shape and presented it for me to use on the bread.
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| Churning butter for bread |
The next two courses changed course on wines requiring a 2011 Viognier from Jasper Hills Farm Cellars, ‘Georgia’s Paddock’ from Heathcote in central Victoria, a good two-hour drive or more north of Melbourne. The winemaker says that the beguiling honeysuckle scents and a fine straw color and classic aromas of honeysuckle and apricots arose the nose while there is the wonderfully expressive citrus-edged palate of white peaches and tropical fruit to finish. The first course with this group was a marron also better known as a Western Australian crayfish served with an almond-sugar pasted marzipan cracker, and brown butter.
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| Western Australian crayfish |
The next course was a spiny hedgehog of the sea, a.k.a sea urchin marron with corn, parson’s nose, which is the fatty extreme end portion of the tail of a fowl when cooked, also called the pope’s nose, served with caviar.
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| sea urchin |
The final wine on the tasting list came with the final three courses, dessert, and petit fours. The tasting was of a 2014 Framingham ‘Noble’ Riesling from Marlborough, New Zealand, a very sweet low alcohol wine reminiscent of a good German dessert wine, or ice wine. The winemaker notes show that the wine is fermented in oak, blended from nine to ten components. Beerenauslese level. Very intense and luscious wine with masses of honeyed botrytis character plus dried apricot/nectarine and a suggestion of spice, pithy marmalade-like citrus, with hints of “gin and tonic.” A Long, powerful dessert wine with a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity preventing any sense of cloying and building terrific tension. The palate is tight but has richness and viscosity. Marmalade flavors, vibrant grapefruit citrus, and apricot with hints of mango and other tropical fruits; “pure” botrytis flavors.
Wine Regulatory’s from the tastings at Vu de Monde:
COWA: The Central Otago Winegrowers Association, New Zealand
AGWA: Australian Grape and Wine Authority
Dessert:
The first dessert course was a strawberry swirl on a skewer, with a rhubarb and mint powder served on yet another rock. Very tasty but also tangy with blended powder, that went down nicely with the Riesling.
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| Strawberry Swirl |
The second dessert, and by far the best-looking presentation of the meal, in my opinion, was the Chamomile, sugar, and lime served in a seared then chilled mango, an absolutely stunning flavor that felt like a second palate cleanser.
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| Mango dessert |
The third and final dessert course was a chocolate soufflé with a powdered sugar. Classic dish put refreshing theme that fit the entire meal. Finally after finishing the wine, and the third dessert, a selection of four petite fours were brought out, to include a wrapped chocolate on the edge of a spoon called ‘the one penny,’ a traditional Australian dessert called ‘flip the penny,’ a game and treat going back over one hundred years. The other selections included caramel candy served on seashells, cherry covered in cubed coconut. Pork skins in white chocolate. You also had the option to add cheese to your course if you wished, and all the local cheeses were kept in a cart, pushed out and the presentation is done tableside.
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| Chocolate soufflé |
During this time I took my second tour of the kitchen, wine cellar, and was introduced to the rare artwork and given an introduction to it. Since I was in food service, the management extended the kitchen tour to me, seeing the inner belly of the beast that most guests did not get to see. When I returned to the table, they had a little bag on the table with some goodies for me to take home, to include bread with honey, cookies, and mixed nuts. As a closing to a perfect lunch the kitchen crew invited me over for a group picture, and some guests also joined in with the picture.
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| Bag of treats |
By the way, the rocks, wood, seashells, and kangaroo leather bread holder which was the main theme of every course was a representation of Australia and its diversity.
Please see these guidelines for Tipping in Restaurants and on following proper etiquette, customs, cultures, and avoiding assumptions when you dine out.
Other Noteworthy Molecular Gastronomy Articles & Restaurants:
Alinea Highly creative new American molecular gastronomy tasting menus in Chicago, Illinois
Edison Food + Drink Lab Eclectic & innovative gastropub using molecular gastronomy in Tampa, Florida
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary”
Other Melbourne restaurants and articles on Wine, Dine, and Play:
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An innovative and eclectic tasting menu
Ripponlea, Australia
A top 20 on Wine Dine and Play
|
Rustic café for Modern Australian
Melbourne, Australia
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Two city-block landmark market
Melbourne, Australia
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A Few Australian Favorites:
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Eclectic French-Asian Tasting Menu
Sydney, Australia
A top 20 on Wine Dine and Play
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Seasonal Northern Italian at the De Bortoli Winery
Yarra Valley, Australia
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Quintessential Modern Australian Cuisine
Sydney, Australia
A top 20 on Wine Dine and Play
|
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Yearly tasting event at Hyde Park
Sydney, Australia
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Modern Australian haute cuisine
Sydney, Australia
|
Creative modern Australian dining
Yarra Glen, Yarra Valley Australia
|
Final notes, review basics, observations and more pictures:
Most reviews are subjective, depending on the writer; but they should also be responsible, and respectfully written, upholding the truth, and accurately conveying the experience to the best of the writer's knowledge, even if it includes metaphors the restaurant may not like to read about. My ratings are by the stars I award (from 0 to 5). The rating is calculated on a point accumulation of six separate factors based on individual experience. They include wine and other beverage selections, plate presentation, customer service, restaurant or café ambiance, food quality, and wow factor. To see more details of this rating list, read this article:
Scores are detailed in the factor chart below:
Formula Factor Conclusions and Overall Ratings
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Max Points Possible:
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Total Points Awarded:
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Total Points deducted:
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Ambiance
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10
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10
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0
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Food quality
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10
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10
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0
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Plate presentation
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10
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10
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0
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Customer service
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10
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10
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0
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Alcohol and other beverages
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10
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9
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1
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Total regular points awarded
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50
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49
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1
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Total percentage Before Bonus
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0.98
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“Wow” factor BONUS
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5
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5
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0
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Total bonus percentage
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0.1
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Total percentage with a bonus for the final star rating
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1.08
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Stars Awarded (see chart below)
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0 - 5
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5
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**A full break down and explanation of the observations and point disbursement is available in the linked article above. To receive a detailed copy of your score, feel free to contact me at any time and I will provide it to you.**
***
Overall Star Rating:
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5 of 5 Stars:
108% Rating with a 5 point “wow” bonus
An Extraordinary Dining Experience
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Wine List:
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Wine rating:
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9 of 10
Old World selections:
Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Spain
New World selections:
Argentina, Australia, California, Canada, Chile, New Zealand, Oregon, South Africa, Washington State
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Corkage fee’s:
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This Restaurant does not list any corkage fee’s however, most American restaurants charge
$25.00 per bottle
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Restaurant style:
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Formal dining
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Cuisine style:
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Australian
Allergen or dietary accommodations:
Farm to Fork, Gluten Free, Grass Fed, Local, Low Carb, Organic, Pescatarian, Sustainable, Vegetarian Options
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Reservations:
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Required
Walk-Ins:
Not accepted
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Dress code:
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Formal or, Semi-formal attire
Gentleman – Dress Coats, Dinner Jackets, or Smart Business Attire
Ladies – Semi Formals, Cocktail Dresses, or Formal Gowns
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Child policy:
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The Restaurants reviewed on this site may have a kids menu or cater to them; however, for full enjoyment of food and wine, it is recommended that kids not to be in attendance, unless they have been trained in proper etiquette.
If not then:
Hire a Babysitter!
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Experiences:
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Place for foodies, Contemporary, Modern, Trendy, Lounge, Business parties, Romantic, Hotspot, Great bar, Good for special occasions, Beautiful décor, Scenic views, Intimate, Classy, Upscale, and a Neighborhood Gem.
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Payments:
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Cash, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express
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Parking:
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Valet or private lot
Valet $50.00 AUS, Private lot $15.00 AUS p/hour
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Wifi
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The restaurants reviewed on this site may have Wi-Fi, but do not require you to go online, because the excitement of the food and wine alone will keep you too entertained instead of checking your social media and emails.
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Noise level:
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Low to Medium
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Smoking:
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Nonsmoking restaurant
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Patio or terrace:
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No
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Food Prices
(excludes, alcohol, taxes & 20% gratuity’s)
$£€¥ - Under 50.00 (inexpensive)
$£€¥ x 2 - 51.00- 99.00 (moderate)
$£€¥ x 3 - Over 100.00 (pricey)
$£€¥ x 4 - Over 200.00 (expensive)
$£€¥ x 5 - Over 400.00 (very expensive)
**Currencies reflect the world’s major travelers, restaurant, or wine connoisseur’s**
Currency:
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Price
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Australian Dollar (AUS)
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$$$$
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United States Dollar (USD)
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$$$$
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Great Britain Pound Sterling (GBP)
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££££
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Canadian Dollar (CAN)
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$$$$
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Chinese Yuan (CNY)
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¥¥¥¥¥
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European Union (EUR)
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€€€€
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Alcohol prices:
$129.00 AUS
Vue de Monde:
Level 55, Rialto
525 Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000
Contact Information:
Restaurant website:
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Maître d or host:
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+61 3 9691 3888
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Online reservations
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Email Contact:
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Serving hours:
Eastern Australian Standard Time
(GMT, Zulu, or UTC + 10:00)
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Lunch: Thur-Sun
12:00 pm - Midday
Dinner: Mon-Sun
6:00 pm - 9:00 pm
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Social Media
&
Accolades:
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****
The worlds best restaurants is a subjective list of who is writing it and changes on a regular basis. The Wine Dine and Play best experiences are based on my highest rated stared restaurants, meaning that the visit was an outstanding or extraordinary experience. From cafés, chains, mom + pops, hole in the walls, to fine dining including a few Michelin spots. Visit the Top 100 page to see the entire list.
A few to tease you with…
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Rodízio buffet and churrascaria
Niagara, Canada
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Dessert shop with Southern treats, and praline
Savannah & Charleston, South Carolina, USA
|
German Bites in Bavarian-style Tavern
Ruskin, Florida, USA
|
Other Pictures:
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Italian immigrant sculptures
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| Views of Melbourne from the Lui Bar |
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Christofle flatware
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Smoked eel, with white chocolate and caviar
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Cured Wallaby
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Assorted starters
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| West Pacific oyster |
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| Wagyu steak flatware setting |
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| Kitchen action |
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| Kitchen expedition line |
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| Kitchen tour |
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| Rock bowl |
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| Wagyu presentation |
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Intermezzo cucumber sorbet with wood sorrel
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| Black Truffle |
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| Kangaroo Bread warming pouch |
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| Butter churner |
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Viognier from Jasper Hills Farm Cellars
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Almond-sugar pasted marzipan cracker
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| Sea urchin |
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Four petite fours
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‘Flip the penny’
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| Wine cellar |
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| Hugo Simoes Santos - Dining Manager |
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| Matthew Lamb - Sommelier |
“Culinary perfection consists not in doing extraordinary things,
But in doing ordinary things extraordinarily well.”
-Angelique Arnauld (1591-1661)
Who is John Galt?
TTFN
