Masters Pursuing Perfection
Saint Petersburg, Florida
Cuisine Style: New American
Average Price: $$
Overall Rating: 5/5
Dined in: July 2016
By Sean Overpeck (CFE)
**A full article and index glossary of restaurants, wines, recipes and travel for
Wine Dine and Play are in the pages section above, or by following these links:
Executive Chefs:
Zach West
Chef Ted Dorsey
Perfection is defined as the state or condition of being perfect according to Webster online. You have heard all your life that practice makes perfect when instead it should be the saying of practice makes an improvement. Beyond practice is the pursuit of perfection, like the famous words in the American Declaration of Independence saying; “the pursuit of happiness.” You have the right to pursue it, but like perfection, it is not guaranteed. Though with hard work, determination, and pride in your trade you can continue to pursue it. The Mill Restaurant in downtown St. Petersburg opened in the summer of 2015, and a second location in Brandon in the summer of 2017. My wife and I have been there twice, and I have no trouble in saying that they are well on there way in the pursuit of perfection in culinary creativity and taste. This was our experience….
Balance, flavors, experimentation, local sourcing, and creativity come together here at The Mill, and chef’s West and Dorsey continue to achieve great things, while at the same time keeping it simple, and offering comfort foods with a twist. When you enter the restaurant it feels like you are entering an old style 19th-century mill, with large steel wheels that were once part of large mill grinders, attached to the wall, simple 19th-century tools on display, and ropes hanging from the ceiling as part of the light fixtures.
Some lights in the dining room were covered with bags, which in the early mill days was used to transport food products that the grinders broke down. The restaurant is in an “L” shape as you enter, then cuts down to the right leading to an open area in the back with more seating. The bar runs the entire course of the back “L” shape with over twenty or more seats. Free valet is available when you dine here at The Mill, but if you are not familiar with where to go, then it can be confusing. The valet is on the back side of the building on 1st Avenue South, not near the front entrance which is on Central Avenue.
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| Ambiance and lights |
The kitchen is located behind the bar, and a portion of it is opened up so that customers sitting at the bar can see the action of their dishes being prepared. My wife and I visited two times within a two week period, the first visit being on a brunch, and were so impressed that we came back to try the dinner menu as well. The Mill is closed on Monday but otherwise open daily for lunch and dinner with brunch on the weekends. The two menus for these meals are broken down as follows:
Brunch menu:
- Sammy’s
- Salads
- Entrees
- Small Plates
- Big Plates
- Desserts
Dinner menu:
- First Plate
- Cheese & Charcuterie
- Salads
- Soup of the Season
- Second Plates
- Third Plates
- Desserts
For our first visit during brunch, we sat at the bar and ordered two drinks from their crafted cocktail list. My wife tried the ‘Tahona’ which was a blend of Milagro Reposado tequila, bitter truth elderflower liqueur, cactus pear puree, lime, and smoked jalapeño agave. I had the ‘Zombie’ with rum clement barrel select, Sailor Jerry, Hamilton 151 Demerara which is a deep amber rum distilled from fermented molasses, velvet falernum grenadine angostura bitters, lime, grapefruit, and cinnamon, with an absinthe-rinsed glass.
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| Tahona and Zombie cocktails |
For our entrees, my wife tried the roast beet Panzanella salad which came with red and golden beets, thinly sliced, accompanied by a large chunk of burrata cheese, wedged tomatoes, brown Italian kumato tomatoes, and aged Balsamic drizzled over the top. The dish also came with a garnish of crème fraîche pound cake croutons, chiffonade of fresh mint and basil, and roasted horseradish vinaigrette.
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| Roast beet Panzanella |
I decided to try the ‘not your momma’s grilled cheese’ served on a marble rye bread, with Swiss cheese, a mild Danish Havarti cheese blended with fresh dill, whipped feta, and smothered in a sweet pepper jam of crispy shallots, some arugula (rocket) lettuce, and a cheddar IPA vinaigrette. Folks let me tell you about divinity. You can define it any way you want, but that grilled cheese was just divine, there are no other words that can describe it. The dish was also served with a delicious hash.
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| Not your momma’s grilled cheese |
Other dishes available include a sausage and waffle benny, steak and egg au Poivre, and chase the dragon pork shoulder sandwich to name a few. You can also get starters of classic biscuits with sausage gravy and scotched eggs with hollandaise.
Dinner Visit:
We sat at a table near the window for our dinner visit, starting with my wife ordering a rosé from the Les Dauphins winery in Côtes du Rhône, and according to the winemaker it was bursting with ripe summer fruits, and an abundance of rich, peppery flavours, this Grenache/Syrah blend works with big flavours. Lively and aromatic with lemon mouthfeel finish. I had a cocktail from their craft list called the ‘Summer at Gitmo’ which had Ford’s gin, watermelon juice, basil-jalapeño syrup, lemon, and balsamic, with a sugar and sea salt blended rim. We also started with the watermelon bruschetta from the first plates section of the menu. The dish had minced tomato, European cucumber, and whipped feta spread onto the rustic homemade loaf of bread, topped with smoked pistachio brittle, and an Añejo tequila agave syrup. A garnish of clover leaves finished the starter dish.
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| Watermelon bruschetta |
Other first plates included sweet pea hummus, and a blue crab croquettes to name a few. They also had assorted cheese and charcuterie plates with variations all made in-house from duck bacon, foie gras torchon, lamb belly bacon, confit oysters, salmon candy, and corned lengua. We bypassed the salad section which included the same salad from brunch with the roast beet Panzanella, but also a country spinach salad, southern belle salad, and a tri-kale and orzo salad, with pickled peppers, and a lemon feta vinaigrette dressing.
For our entree dishes, my wife had the venison saddle prepared sous-vide style with a juniper rub, red oak lettuce, confit petite carrots, two hour cooked turnips, sun-dried tomato pesto, and a green goddess vinaigrette.
As the dish was from the first plates part of the menu, she also ordered a second item from that same menu called the crispy goat cheese gnocchi with lamb belly, confit tomato, and a whiskey mustard cream topping. My wife also enjoyed a glass of Bodegas Campillo white Rioja with her meal. Lemon yellow with green hues; clean and bright. It is a wine of intense complex aromas that blend floral notes and white ripe fruit against a background of well-integrated wood says the winemaker with a smooth attack with a hint of acidity that gives it freshness. Complex finish with pleasant fruity sensations.
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| Goat cheese gnocchi with lamb belly |
I also bypassed the second plates section which had items like a rum braised pork cheek, smoked braised boar ribs, and country fried quail to name a few, which all sounded fantastic, but in the end my eyes were drawn to a classic southern comfort food with a small twist on the third plates section of the menu. This item was the meatloaf Wellington, and being partially English from my mothers' side of the family and living in the southern United States for most of my adult life, it was a very hard dish to even try to pass up. The meatloaf was a traditional style dish though stuffed inside the puff pastry with some taleggio cheese, and served with some braised seasonal collard greens, a bourbon maple yam mash, and all topped with a smoked mushroom gravy. My god, the dish was fantastic. With my entree, I had a glass of Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Malbec which also paired perfectly. On the nose, blackberry and eucalyptus notes are provided by the grapes grown above 3,450 feet. The mouthfeel is contributed by the grapes grown at lower altitude, while it´s fresh, the mineral character can be traced back to grapes grown at the highest elevations.
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| Meatloaf Wellington |
Other dishes on the third plates portion of the menu included Mississippi style fish and grits, using grits from South Carolina, pork tomahawk, and red curry coconut braised short ribs along with about eight more selections to choose from.
Dessert:
The Mill has four desserts on their menu excluding any specials, and my wife and I shared the Dutch chocolate tart which had a saltine cracker crust, with hazelnut toffee bark, a creme de alba meringue, and a drizzled glaze of balsamic, and whole hazelnuts, with a mint garnish. Other selections on their menu include a chocolate and peanut butter staple cake with strawberry marmalade, a champagne Solerno sabayon {Zabaglione}, with candied orange zest, and a honey black pepper cheesecake with local honeycomb and bee pollen brittle.
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| Dutch chocolate tart |
Please see these guidelines for Tipping in Restaurants and on following proper etiquette, customs, cultures, and avoiding assumptions when you dine out.
A brief look at the wine list:
On the wine menu at The Mill, they offer selections from several different parts of the world, mainly from new world selections, and thankfully none of the previously mentioned crappy mainstreams are on their menu, but they still do have several mainstream selections like Hess vineyards, Pine Ridge, and Cannonball.
The wine list consists of a range of house table wines at $9.00 to $13.00 per glass and $34.00 per bottle and higher with mainstream names offered at $95. They also have a very nice cocktail and beer list.
Wine regulatory’s for the tastings in this article:
European Union:
France:
Spain:
Other Noteworthy New American Cuisine Articles & Restaurants:
Alinea Highly creative new American molecular gastronomy tasting menus in Chicago, Illinois
Chill Restaurant & Bar New American Cuisine, tapas, and exotic cocktails in St. Pete Beach
Harvest Moon Café Farm-to-Fork Daily changing new American fare menu in Sonoma, California
Lobby at Twelve Boutique hotel bistro, new American, and Southern favorites at Atlantic Station, Atlanta
Moshulu New American dining on a restored ship in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Samantha’s Restaurant Mellow new American fare in North Canton, Ohio
The Mad Hatter Waterfront upscale new American cuisine on Sanibel Island, Florida
Z Grille Colorfully inspired twists on American Classics in St. Petersburg, Florida
Zinc Bistro and Bar Southwestern-inspired new American fare in San Antonio, Texas
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary”
Other St. Petersburg restaurants and articles on Wine Dine and Play:
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Innovative Finer Seafood & Raw Bar
At the Sundial
St. Petersburg, Florida, USA
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Colonial Portuguese Fusion with tapas
St. Petersburg, Florida, USA
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Organic Farmers Market in Pioneer Park
St. Petersburg, Florida, USA
|
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Sophisticated American fare
St. Petersburg, Florida, USA
|
Laid-back dockside spot for global eats
St. Petersburg, Florida, USA
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Elegant tavern seafood with oysters
St. Petersburg, Florida, USA
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A Few Florida Favorites:
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Brandon,
Casual curries of North & South with Buffet
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Old-world classic Italian & Mediterranean
New Smyrna Beach
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Old School Rustic Tuscan
Gulfport
|
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Native American Cuisine w/Barbacoa Grilling
Tampa
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Upscale Pan Asian Fare w/sushi
Orlando
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Sanibel Island
Waterfront upscale new American cuisine
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See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary by country”
Final notes, review basics, observations and more pictures:
Most reviews are subjective, depending on the writer; but they should also be responsible, and respectfully written, upholding the truth, and accurately conveying the experience to the best of the writer's knowledge, even if it includes metaphors the restaurant may not like to read about. My ratings are by the stars I award (from 0 to 5). The rating is calculated on a point accumulation of six separate factors based on individual experience. They include wine and other beverage selections, plate presentation, customer service, restaurant or café ambiance, food quality, and wow factor. To see more details of this rating list, read this article:
Scores are detailed in the factor chart below:
Formula Factor Conclusions and Overall Ratings
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Max Points Possible:
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Total Points Awarded:
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Total Points deducted:
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Ambiance
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10
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9
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1
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Food quality
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10
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9
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1
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Plate presentation
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8
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8
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0
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Customer service
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9
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7
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2
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Alcohol and other beverages
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9
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8
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1
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Total regular points awarded
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46
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41
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5
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Total percentage Before Bonus
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0.891304347826087
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“Wow” factor BONUS
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5
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3
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0
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Total bonus percentage
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0.0652173913043478
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Total percentage with a bonus for the final star rating
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0.956521739130435
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Stars Awarded (see chart below)
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0 - 5
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5
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**A full break down and explanation of the observations and point disbursement is available in the linked article above. To receive a detailed copy of your score, feel free to contact me at any time and I will provide it to you.**
***
Overall Star Rating:
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5 of 5 Stars:
96% Rating with a 3 point “wow” bonus
An Extraordinary Dining Experience
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Wine rating:
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7 of 10
Old World selections:
France, Italy, Spain
New World selections:
Argentina, California, Lebanon, New Mexico, New York, New Zealand, Oregon, South Africa, Washington State
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Corkage fee’s:
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This Restaurant does not list any corkage fee’s however, most American restaurants charge
$25.00 per bottle
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Restaurant style:
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Casual dining
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Cuisine Style:
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American, Southern American
Allergen or dietary accommodations:
Farm to Fork, Gluten Free, Grass Fed, Halal, Local, Low Carb, Non-GMO, Organic, Pescatarian, Sustainable, Vegan Options, Vegetarian
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Reservations:
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Not Required, But Recommended
Walk-Ins:
Accepted, but not guaranteed
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Dress code:
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Casual attire
It’s Florida, everybody wears flip-flops!
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Child policy:
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The Restaurants reviewed on this site may have a kids menu or cater to them; however, for full enjoyment of food and wine, it is recommended that kids not to be in attendance, unless they have been trained in proper etiquette.
If not then:
Hire a Babysitter!
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Experiences:
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Place for foodies, Contemporary, Hotspot, Great bar, Good for special occasions, Rustic, Classy, and a Neighborhood Gem.
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Payments:
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Cash, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express
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Parking:
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Street meter parking
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Wifi
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The restaurants reviewed on this site may have Wi-Fi, but do not require you to go online, because the excitement of the food and wine alone will keep you too entertained instead of checking your social media and emails.
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Noise level:
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Medium
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Smoking:
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Nonsmoking restaurant
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Patio or terrace:
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No
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Food Prices
(excludes, alcohol, taxes & 20% gratuity’s)
$£€¥ - Under 50.00 (inexpensive)
$£€¥ x 2 - 51.00- 99.00 (moderate)
$£€¥ x 3 - Over 100.00 (pricey)
$£€¥ x 4 - Over 200.00 (expensive)
$£€¥ x 5 - Over 400.00 (very expensive)
**Currencies reflect the world’s major travelers, restaurant, or wine connoisseur’s**
Currency:
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Price
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United States Dollar (USD)
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$$$
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Great Britain Pound Sterling (GBP)
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£££
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Canadian Dollar (CAN)
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$$$
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Chinese Yuan (CNY)
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¥¥¥¥¥
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European Union (EUR)
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€€€
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Alcohol prices:
$ 67.00 USD
The Mill Restaurant:
200 Central Ave #100
St. Petersburg, Florida
33701
Contact Information:
Restaurant website:
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Maître d or host:
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+1 727 317 3930
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Email Contact:
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Serving hours:
Eastern Standard Time
(GMT, Zulu, or UTC - 5:00)
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Dinner: Tue-Thur
11:00 am - 11:00 pm
Fri-Sat
11:00am - Midnight
Sunday
10:00 am - 10:00 pm
Monday
Closed
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Social Media
&
Accolades:
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****
The worlds best restaurants is a subjective list of who is writing it and changes on a regular basis. The Wine Dine and Play best experiences are based on my highest rated stared restaurants, meaning that the visit was an outstanding or extraordinary experience. From cafés, chains, mom + pops, hole in the walls, to fine dining including a few Michelin spots. Visit the Top 100 page to see the entire list.
A few to tease you with…
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Landmark Mexican Restaurant
Austin, Texas, USA
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Traditional Spanish & Cuban chain since 1905
Ybor City & Sarasota, Florida, USA
|
Acclaimed soul food spot for fried chicken
New Orlean’s, Louisiana, USA
|
Other Pictures:
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| Wine rack |
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| Dining room |
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| Kitchen |
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| Bar |
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| Bathroom sink |
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| Venison saddle |
“Culinary perfection consists not in doing extraordinary things,
But in doing ordinary things extraordinarily well.”
-Angelique Arnauld (1591-1661)
Who is John Galt?
TTFN
