Immerse Yourself In South African History
Rorke's Drift, KwaZulu Natal
Cuisine Style: African, Buffet
Cuisine Style: African, Buffet
Visited and Dined in December 2013
By Sean Overpeck (CFE)
**A full article and index glossary of restaurants, wines, recipes and travel for
Wine Dine and Play are in the pages section above, or by following these links:
Proprietor / Manager:
Nicky Rattray
One week into my South African vacation was now about to turn from mainly cuisine and wine which I gorged myself on in Cape Town, to the history of South Africa. Now I wasn’t crazy, I still intended to enjoy some great food, and get some good wine. I flew from Cape Town to Durban on the Eastern Cape of South Africa. The city was known as the Beverly Hills of Africa. It also has the largest Indian population per capita outside of India. This part of the tour, my full intention was to immerse myself in Zulu history. As a kid, I had seen the movie Zulu with Michael Caine, and how the British Army massively outnumbered, won the battle. Later on, I fell in love with the television miniseries Shaka Zulu, which went into great detail about the life of the Zulu people and the Napoleon of Africa as he was known. As I planned my trip for South Africa months before, I set aside several days for the Zulu. I could not imagine anything better than what I had found. A lodge with all the comforts of a five star hotel, on a reserve with wild animals, great food and wine, sitting right next to two battlefields which were the pivotal points in colonial Africa that brought about the beginning of the end for the Zulu Empire, and the reign of the British and Boers in Africa. This location was called Fugitives Lodge. The Zulu War of 1879 is famous throughout the English-speaking world for the great battles of Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift. The property, is a 5000-acre Natural Heritage Site, overlooking both Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift and includes the site where Lieutenants Melvill and Coghill lost their lives attempting to save the Queen’s Colour of their regiment. |
| Fugitives Drift Lodge Property |
I landed at the King Shaka International Airport outside of Durban, rented my car, and then began my drive through KwaZulu Natal. I began driving north up through the North Coast area just before entering Zululand then headed west towards the battlefields area. It was called battlefields because there were over 100 separate battlefield marker points, museums, and memorials marking 100 years of battle, from early Zulu wars with fellow tribes, Boers, and the British, to the two Anglo-Boer Wars. My first stop along the way was the city of Stanger where the King Shaka Memorial heritage site was located. If I was going to do a historical tour of the Zulu’s then why not start with their greatest king’s memorial. I did not get a chance to stop, because as I pulled up, seeing many locals walking around going about their business, a fight between several of them started, and was pushed into the street. Not seeing any police, and weary of people looking directly at me, made me keep driving. The area itself was very run down. It is a shame that a national historic landmark is not taken care of more. Besides, good luck trying to find any parking.
I headed west with the intention of visiting the Nyezane Battlefield, the British Cemetery and Fort at KwaMondi, in the city of Eshowe, Gqokli Hill Battlefield, in the city of Ulundi and the Grave of Piet Retief, before reaching the Fugitives Drift Lodge. Now, notice how I said intended. Here is what I recommend for anyone wanting to see these sites, hire a guide. I relied on my little GPS, and in my two-wheel drive piece of crap Volkswagen, ended up on a dirt road up in the hills, and getting stuck in the mud, since it had just rained. When I got out and found my way back to the main road, several hours had gone by, and I needed to be at the lodge by 6 PM because they closed the gates, and my reservation would have been lost. Keeping in mind I still had two hours’ drive before I reached the lodge and it was nearly 3 PM, I thought it best to skip all the sites, and return to South Africa in the future to visit all these sites without any time constraints against me.
I made up some good time once I hit the main roads, but was upset that I didn’t plan and research this better so that I could have enjoyed more battlefield sites, and was very disappointed that the Shaka memorial was in such a rundown area, not suitable to tourists. I saw the sign for the turn-off, or at least I hope it was the correct turn-off since I had taken a route different from the instructions on the Fugitive Drift webpage since I got lost earlier. The sign said Rorke’s Drift, and I remember from the Zulu movie and the article I read through the years that the famous battle and British victory was Rorke’s Drift. So I turned onto that road, and ended up on another dirt road, wondering if my rental was going to take much more punishment. I ran into a few local Zulu tribesmen along the way who were kind enough to give me directions since my GPS was “F” ing up, and they told me I was on the right path. The dirt road went for fifteen miles, and finally I saw an old sign, half rubbed out that said fugitive. No drift, just fugitive. I thought what the hell, it was 5:30 and I needed to hurry.
Another few miles and I arrived at a gate to a private property. I had arrived. The sense of relief swelled over me. The guard got my information and then presented me with an envelope. He said to read it as I continued to drive, and that it would be ten minutes before I arrived at the lodge, and to drive slow. I began reading, driving slowly, and I’m glad I did because the note which was a welcome letter addressed to me mentioned that I was on a private game reserve and that I might see animals. Well, I should never read and drive, and am glad I was going slow, because a few Zebra trotted across the road about thirty feet in front of me, and further up I saw some Giraffes do the same thing.
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| Animals on the property |
When I arrived at the lodge a group of folks welcomed me, took the luggage to my room, and parked my car. They escorted me to the main dining room and offered me a beverage of my choice. Alcohol was on the top of my choices after that day. I had discovered an alcoholic beverage when I was in Cape Town that was very good and decided to enjoy a glass as the folks escorted me to my room. The liqueur was called Amarula, harvested from the Marula fruit of the dioecious tree. Each room was a separate house not connected to any others to give the person staying a secluded piece of privacy. The rooms patio looked out into the open reserve with green grass, tree’s, and hills in the distance, to include a view of Isandlwana Hill, where the British were defeated by the Zulu’s at the start of the Anglo-Zulu War, and one of the two battle sites I would see while staying at this lodge.
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| Isandlwana Hill |
In the room were two large beds, a living room area and a beautiful bathroom with a cast-iron tub. Normally when I travel somewhere, I stay at a Hilton, so I was really treating myself. I went back up to the main dining room after I settled in. Dinner didn’t start until after 7 PM, but they had a casual meet and greet one hour before which included cocktails and Hors d'oeuvre. The dining room was a very large area with more than just a few tables set up for the guests, but also a living room area. Covering the walls was memorabilia of the two great battles that started the Ago-Zulu war Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift. There were pictures, flags, battle regiment information, Zulu spears and shields, British rifles, and display shelves filled with trinkets that had been dug up from the battlefield sites such as bullets, sword fragments, and clothing.
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| Main Dining Room |
A group of new arrivals joined me in the living room and we enjoyed some conversation. They were Australian, a family of five, with all three kids that were college age. The gentleman owned a farm in Australia, growing Shiraz grapes that he sold to local wineries, a very lucrative business to say the least. A few more people that had been at the lodge for a night or two joined us, and then the manager of the facility joined us and invited us to be seated for dinner. The owner of the property, Nicky Rattray was away on business or vacation, so I didn’t get a chance to meet her. Her husband David who was the main person behind the founding of the lodge and the battlefield tours had died several years earlier, and a foundation had been put in place in his name to help the local Zulu people and to protect the land. Also arriving to join us for dinner was Alastair Lamont, who would be our tour guide of the battlefields.
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| Head Tour Guide Leader Alastair Lamont |
For dinner each night, we would have three courses, and the menu was written on a chalkboard, is displayed near the tables. For wines, they had a large selection to choose from and gave recommendations or house wines that came complimentary with the meal. Those selections being from the vineyards of Jordan (not to be mistaken for Jordan winery in Sonoma, California), Thelma Mountain, and Kevin Arnold; all in Stellenbosch. I decided that I was in the mood for a Pinot Noir, however, as the selections above were all either Shiraz or Merlot. I wanted something lighter, so I chose the Newton Johnson Vineyard Pinot. A few days before, while I was in Cape Town eating at The Test Kitchen, I had enjoyed a wine from the same vineyard, only it was a white Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blend from 2012 called Resonance. I remember it being very good, so I decided to try their Pinot Noir to see if it impressed me as well. I was not disappointed.
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| Daily Menus |
Our first course was a butternut squash soup, very refreshing after that long drive, followed by a Greek-style lamb dish in a phyllo, with vegetables of pepper, zucchini, and carrots sitting on a mint Verde sauce. The lamb was cooked to a perfect medium rare, and the sauce reminded me a little bit of a Tzatziki Sauce. The dessert course was a Pavlova, a Russian meringue-based dessert with whipped cream, banana, watermelon, strawberries, and honeydew.
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| Lamb Phyllo |
When that dessert course was done large platters of six Artisan kinds of cheese were brought out with assorted crackers and sauces. All of us nibbled on the cheeses as the conversations continued. It felt good to be around a variety of different people from around the world, not afraid to travel or be so self-centered to want a McDonalds or KFC everywhere they went. The conversation carried, but I only stayed for about half an hour as I was tired from a very long day.
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| Cheese Platter |
The morning came quickly as we had to get up and be ready to go very early for the battlefield tours. It would be another long day as we would visit two battlefields, and the most famous ones in Africa, Isandlwana, the sight of the greatest British defeat in the morning and Rorke’s Drift, the sight of one of the British empires greatest victories in the afternoon. Both battles were fought on the same day in 1879, the 22nd of January, and would forever change the course of African History. We all met back in the dining room where the staff had prepared a fruit bowl for us, then asked how we liked out eggs, and what side items we wished to have with the eggs, and as you know being that I’m American, I have to have pork bacon for breakfast.
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| Oat Breakfast Dish |
Alastair Lamont, our tour guide met us for coffee, and went over in detail how we would spend the day, the escorted us to the land rovers to begin our drive to the Isandlwana Battlefield. The drive was a good hour, and we stopped a few times along the way so that Alastair could walk us through the details leading up to the great battle, such as the 2200 British and Natal contingents under Lt. Gen. Frederic Augustus Thesiger, 2nd Baron Lord Chelmsford of the 24th Regiment of Foot with Subordinate commanders: Brevet Lt-Col. Henry Pulleine, and Brevet Col. Anthony Durnford, versus General Ntshingwayo kaMahole Khoza, of the Impi regiment under King Cetshwayo kaMpande’s Army, 20,000 strong. For those who don’t like or have the time to read books on the subject, a movie, and prequel to Zulu with Michael Caine was released called Zulu Dawn, starring Peter O'Toole who recently passed away in December 2013, and Burt Lancaster, which focuses on the Battle of Isandlwana, whereas the movie Zulu focuses on The Battle of Rorke’s Drift. We stopped at the Buffalo River which in 1879 was the border between Natal and Zululand, at the exact location where the British army crossed and invaded. Alastair also mentioned that this is where Zulu Dawn was filmed to show on the screen the exact locations, whereas Zulu was filmed over one hundred miles away from the sight of the real Rorke’s Drift.
Alastair went into more detail about the film telling us what was made up and what was not, indicating that historically the movie was very accurate, but the acting was horrible. He also mentioned that the movie filming was delayed constantly and over budget because Peter O’Toole was always drunk, and not showing up to shot his scenes. We drove across the river then up to a hill where Alistair showed us where the Zulu commander Ntshingwayo kaMahole Khoza stood to give his orders and explained in detail the tactics of the Zulu. They would set up in a buffalo formation with a strong center, but the main force was located on the left and right sides of the center, known as the horns, and as the center engaged, the horns would move in, surround the enemy, and then slaughter them, a tactic invented by King Shaka.
After visiting a museum and having another lecture, we entered the battlefield, where we saw the large hill where the British made their last stand. As we drove we passed hundreds of piles of Cairns, which were white colored stones where anywhere between 6 and 40 British soldiers were buried. The Cairns were everywhere, spread out around the battlefield, an amazing sight. Over 1,300 were killed including 52 officers, 727 British regulars, 471 others including 133 European Colonial troops, and 343 African Natal Native Contingent, with 2 cannons captured. On the Zulu side, there were an estimated 1,000 killed, and 2,000 wounded. We spent about thirty minutes walked around the battlefield, looking closely at the cairns, and visiting the grave markers of officers such as Pulleine and Durnford, and walking up the hill where the largest cairns were placed. This hill was the last stand. Alastair told us the stories that had been passed down from the Zulu people as well as the British history texts, and one story stuck out in my mind of a British soldier who was hiding in the rocks after the slaughter. The Zulu’s spoke of him as the bravest soldier on the field that day. As the Zulu’s defeated the British, the warriors cut open the soldier which was a Zulu tradition of helping to release their souls and put on their uniforms, another custom after the victory of a battle. For the British, this was a barbaric act, and the soldier saw his friends being cut open, so he fired back, killing several Zulu warriors. It was night by this time, and it took time before the Zulu’s found him hiding in a cave, and killed him. Because he stayed to fight and did not run away, the Zulu remember him and honor him as the bravest man on the field that day.
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| Isandlwana Battlefield Graves |
As the tour ended, we drove back to lodge where we enjoyed a lunch in the Hartford Library, which overlooked the reserve and Buffalo River, a spectacular view. We began with our choice of beverages whether they be with or without alcohol, then made our way to the buffet table. The table had assortments of bread, the artisan cheese platter with nine separate kinds of cheese, versus the six we had after dinner last night.
There were assortments of salads, but the main item that came with a recommendation was a chicken pot pie. Well, my god, this was the best chicken pot pie I had ever had, and as a Chef saying it, you know it is good. As lunch ended, it was time to go out on another tour, this time to the second battle on the same day in 1879, Rorke’s Drift. |
| Hartford Library at the Lodge |
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| Zulu movie, picture courtesy of fanpop.com |
We arrived after a quick ten-minute drive from the lodge and walked up to the main museum which during the battle was the hospital. We spent about twenty minutes in the museum and then went over to the Chapel which during the battle was the commissary. At the conclusion of the Isandlwana battle, the right horn of the buffalo, under the command of Prince Dabulamanzi kaMpande, known as the Undi 'corps' of 4,500 men. His men had played little part in the action at Isandlwana but goaded on by his men, and despite the orders of his brother, King Cetshwayo kaMpande, not to cross the Buffalo River into Natal, he chose to attack the British supply base, which the AmaZulu called KwaJimu. The Zulu King had strict orders that the war would be a defensive war, not an offensive. He wanted to show that the British were the aggressors. The picture below is a Zulu memorial located at Isandlwana that shows the horns of the buffalo formation that the Zulu’s used. The left horn shows a series of spears, while the right horn has none. The spears indicate victory and great awards were given, but the right horn has none because the Prince disobeyed the orders of the king by invading Natal.
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| Zulu Warrior Memorial |
Alastair said that the Zulu’s today do not even talk about the battle of Rorke’s Drift, not because it was a loss for the Zulu, but because the warriors are shamed for disobeyed the king. On the ground from the outer walled sides of the hospital to the commissary where stones were on the ground. This area is highlighted with bags of grain called mealie, were placed to build a defensive wall to protect the encampment from attack.The Zulu’s attacked wave after wave and managed to get into the hospital where several British soldiers were sick and resting. The patients, some who hid in closets and easily killed by the Zulu’s, while others broke through the walls to connect with the other soldiers. Some managed to escape, and join the remainder of the soldiers in the main encampment. Alastair went into detail as we walked around the hospital, taking each step explaining what the soldiers and the Zulu’s did. The battles continued throughout the night, and by the morning, the British were victorious.
After the tour and lectures, we walked around the drift seeing the gravestones and memorials of the British and Zulu soldiers that died during the battle. The Zulu memorial was a group of shields with a leopard resting on top. Eleven Victoria Crosse’s were awarded for bravery at the Battle of Rorke’s Drift. Alastair told another story of how some of the men lived out their entire lives and the families or others that knew they had no idea that they had won the highest award given to the British Military. This award was the American version of the Congressional Medal of Honor. The eleven recipients of the Victoria Cross were Lieutenants Bromhead and Chard, privates Alfred Hook, Frederick Hitch, Robert Jones, William Jones, Corporal Allen, James Langley Dalton, and Pte. John Williams. Surgeon Reynolds got the Cross for tending the wounded under fire; and the Swiss volunteer Christian Schiess - the first to a soldier serving with South Africa forces.
We drove back to the lodge, just in time for the dinner meal, where we started with a creamed tomato soup, followed by a pork dish with potatoes and fresh vegetables. The following morning after enjoying another nice breakfast, it was time to hit the road. I had to prepare for a long drive up to Leopard Hills Lodge on the Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve next to Kruger National Park, where I would start the African Safari Adventure. The cooks at the Fugitives Drift Lodge prepared a lunch for me in a to-go bag to eat while driving. They also had washed my car for me and cleaned the inside during my stay. I was very impressed, and highly recommend making a reservation when you’re in the area.
Cost of wines and other alcoholic beverages:
R200.00
Tasting Notes:
Wine and Grape:
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Nose (Bouquet):
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Palette Experience:
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Pure and precise characters of fragrant cherries, currants, earthiness, and spice.
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The perfume and silky smooth tannins are complemented with depth provided by the red clay deeper in the soil.
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Other Noteworthy Buffet Articles and Restaurants:
A Taste of India Casual curries of North & South India with full lunch buffet in Brandon, Florida
Bourj Al Hamam Restaurant Levant, Jordanian, and Lebanese cuisines with a buffet in Amman, Jordan
Brasa Brazilian Steakhouse Rodízio buffet and churrascaria in the Hilton, Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Café Arabesque Contemporary Middle Eastern and Levant buffet in the Hyatt Park, Dubai, UAE
Fogo de Chão An upscale Brazilian chain with 49 locations. Review based in Buckhead, Atlanta, Georgia
Junsui An eclectic taste of Asia with buffets at the Burj Al Arab Hotel, Dubai, UAE
Mount Nelson Afternoon Tea Banquet of pastries & sandwiches at the Belmond, in Cape Town, S. Africa
Panfilo’s Bar and Grill Bar And Grill with hotel buffet at the Sheraton East, Tampa, Florida
Safar Restaurant Arabic and Emirati blended buffet at the Dubai International Airport (DXB), UAE
The Boma - Dinner and Drum Show Taste of tribal Zimbabwean cuisine in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
The Dutch Kitchen Buffet of Dutch and French cuisine at the Schiphol Airport, Amsterdam
The Jungle Junction Zimbabwe & international tastings buffet at the Victoria Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe
The Medieval Banquet Medieval-style British cuisine banquet plus 2-hour dinner show in London, UK
Tirquaz Bistro and Garden Lounge W. Asian, N. African, & European dishes in Bur Dubai, UAE
Tradewinds Restaurant Local and international cuisine in Sandton, South Africa
See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary”
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Seasonal South African cuisine bistro
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Safari + Upscale African Cuisine
Sabi Sabi, South Africa
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Innovative East Meets West Menu
Cape Town, South Africa
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Modern eclectic and Nouvelle Latin cuisine
A Top 20 on Wine Dine and Play
Cape Town
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Bush to Bistro concept
Lanseria
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Contemporary & elegant eclectic eatery
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Seafood and sushi with panorama views
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Country-Style local ingredients w/French flair
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Wine and food tour
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See the whole list by visiting “The Wine Dine and Play Article Glossary by country”
Final notes, review basics, observations and more pictures:
Most reviews are subjective, depending on the writer; but they should also be responsible, and respectfully written, upholding the truth, and accurately conveying the experience to the best of the writer's knowledge, even if it includes metaphors the restaurant may not like to read about. My ratings are by the stars I award (from 0 to 5). The rating is calculated on a point accumulation of six separate factors based on individual experience. They include wine and other beverage selections, plate presentation, customer service, restaurant or café ambiance, food quality, and wow factor. To see more details of this rating list, read this article:
Overall from this experience, and the score factors outlined in the ‘about page’ section, based on my individual experience and rating, I give Fugitive’s Drift a 4 out of 5 stars, meaning that they not only exceeded my expectations and were far above the average dining experience of most restaurants, but they were outstanding.
Overall Star Rating:
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4 of 5 Stars:
91% Rating with a 3 point “wow” bonus
An Outstanding Dining Experience
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Wine rating:
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5 of 10
Old World selections:
France, Germany
New World selections:
South Africa
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Corkage fees:
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This Restaurant does not list any corkage fee’s however, most American restaurants charge
$25.00 per bottle
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Restaurant style:
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Conservative dining
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Cuisine Style:
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African, Mediterranean, Russian
Allergen or dietary accommodations:
Farm to Fork, Grass-Fed, Organic, Pescatarian, Sustainable, Vegetarian Options
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Reservations:
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Required
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Dress code:
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Conservative, Smart, or Casual attire
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Child policy:
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The Restaurants reviewed on this site may have a kids menu or cater to them; however, for full enjoyment of food and wine, it is recommended that kids not to be in attendance, unless they have been trained in proper etiquette.
If not then:
Hire a Babysitter!
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Experiences:
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Place for foodies, Contemporary, Great outdoor dining, and Scenic views
Battlefield tourism, Horseback Riding, Fishing, Animal Watches, Hiking, Spa, Swimming Pool, Great Outdoor Dining, Good for special occasions, Rustic, Scenic views, Great brunch, Upscale
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Payments:
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Cash, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express
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Parking:
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Private parking for guests
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Wifi
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The restaurants reviewed on this site may have Wi-Fi, but do not require you to go online, because the excitement of the food and wine alone will keep you too entertained instead of checking your social media and emails.
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Noise level:
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Low
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Smoking:
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Nonsmoking restaurant
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Patio or terrace:
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Yes
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Food Prices
(excludes, alcohol, taxes & 20% gratuity’s)
$£€¥ - Under 50.00 (inexpensive)
$£€¥ x 2 - 51.00- 99.00 (moderate)
$£€¥ x 3 - Over 100.00 (pricey)
$£€¥ x 4 - Over 200.00 (expensive)
$£€¥ x 5 - Over 400.00 (very expensive)
**Currencies reflect the world’s major travelers, restaurant, or wine connoisseur’s**
Currency:
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Price
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South African Rand (ZAR)
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R 1,700.00
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United States Dollar (USD)
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$$$
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Great Britain Pound Sterling (GBP)
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££
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Canadian Dollar (CAN)
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$$$
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Chinese Yuan (CNY)
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¥¥¥¥¥
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European Union (EUR)
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€€€
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CANCELLATION POLICY
To secure the reservation a deposit of 50% of the accommodation value is required within 48 hours of making the reservation. We reserve the right to charge the following:-
Less than 14 days prior to arrival – total cost of the reservation
15 – 21 days prior to arrival – 75% of the reservation
22 – 28 days prior to arrival – 50% of the reservation
In the event of a no-show, the total cost of the reservation will be charged for.
Lodge address:
Rorke's Drift
KwaZulu Natal
Rorke's Drift 3233,
South Africa
Contact Information:
Restaurant website:
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Maître d or host:
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+27 34 642 1843
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Email Contact:
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South African Time
(GMT, Zulu, or UTC - BST Offset + 2:00)
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Social Media
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Accolades:
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****
The worlds best restaurants is a subjective list of who is writing it and changes on a regular basis. The Wine Dine and Play’s best experiences list is based on my highest rated stared restaurants, meaning that the visit was an outstanding or extraordinary experience. From cafés, chains, mom + pops, hole in the walls, to fine dining including a few Michelin spots. Visit the Top 100 page to see the entire list.
A few to tease you with…
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Southwestern-inspired New American fare
San Antonio, Texas, USA
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Acclaimed upmarket classic & innovative Italian
Dubai Marina, Dubai, UAE
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upscale locally sourced seafood eatery with ocean views
Vero Beach, Florida, USA
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Other Pictures:
Who is John Galt?
TTFN
